Giles Deacon’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection brought Victorian opulence with a modern twist while contrasting androgyny with all things feminine. The first look on the runway was masked with masculinity - a perfectly tailored suit trouser nipped in all the right places and a velvet black jacket with silk lapel and layering around the waist. There were also hyper-structured tailcoats and buttoned up shirts.
As the show went on rigid tailoring was exchanged for softer more feminine looks. Overall it was not colour (a palatable mix of beiges, cameo pinks and blue greys), which drew the crowd’s attention, but the interesting layers and prints to which they were applied. Eye-caching silk skirts, knee-length gowns with feathered hems and black-tie dresses used the subtle colour palette with great success. As well as the collection’s meticulously designed prints volume was also key. Dresses seemed larger than life thanks to the structured petticoats that lay beneath. A particular favourite was the use of gold on a particular silk skirt towards the end of the show.
As for accessories, the collection contained many beautiful shoes sporting super high and ultra chunky heels. Aside from the touch of gold, it was on a certain pair of fuchsia peep-toe tasseled shoe boots where Deacon decided to inject his second flash of colour.
- Pascale Barget