Nicolas Ghesquière returned to the Spanish roots of the Balenciaga house for his spring/summer 2013 collection.
First, there were the ruffles. They finished off fitted sleeves, rippled around the hips of short asymmetrical skirts or - on longer options- came undulating diagonally down the front, leaving legs exposed to the elements. They were unquestionably sexy, but slightly sinister too. For when the fresh-faced models walked by, some of the skirts featured a gaping hole sliced along the hem, as if the seams had split during a torrid flamingo dance.
Then, there were the boxy crop tops that arguably could be seen as a modern take on a classic Spanish gilet and fray edged micro skirts cut from men’s suiting fabric that hung a bit longer at the front which brought to mind a señorita’s hip scarf.
There were also more tailored pieces to the collection including high waisted pantsuits in firm fabrics, neoprene jackets and coats crafted to stand away from the body. But this sporty show was all about showing off some skin.
Legs, midriffs, arms, and torsos were all laid bare on the catwalk at one point or another, and sometimes all at once. The best of these looks was the final group of outfits that paired graphic and textural tops with with projecting pleated skirts, or others crafted from laser cut leather slices that looked like abstract leafs held together with slashing branch-like stitch work.
It was a collection designed for a fit and fierce woman with an idiosyncratic approach to fashion. The perfect example- Kristen Stewart (the face Florabotanica, the brand’s new perfume) who was sitting in the front row, enjoying a show that seemed to be created just for her.
- Jessica Michault