Costume National - Ready To Wear - Spring Summer 2013 - Paris

30 Sep 2012
Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris

In the left corner, ROCKNROLL, undisputed champion of Costume National, a vision in black and white... And in the right, the contender, POPNROLL in geranium and vermillion, is waiting for its moment. Let the battle royal begin in the arena of spring/summer 2013.

Ennio Capasa reprises last summer's exploration of colors outside his usual map, but in a limited manner. This collection sees an ever more pronounced variation on asymmetry, where lengths were mixed, straps highlighted the waist. The Costume National woman means business and her outfit shows it.

Capasa makes it imaginable to integrated even his stronger, more conceptual cuts into a wardrobe. A jacket is half on, half transformed into a bustier; black and blue crisscross on a jacket, mirroring each other; on tamer pieces, only lapels are infected with this imbalance and the clutches multiply the flat motif from single to an accordion. Geranium half coils around the neck on a strong trouser suit. A lapel halter neck flowers into tailored trousers.

Costume National still has an smoldering sexiness. A hint of bondage pops in as bras under extremely sheer blouses. Here and there, the prints created by TOILETPAPER over the course of the year feature on pieces. Fans of the brand will definitely adhere to the tailoring going on, and the drop of color inserted in the middle could well become favorites.

- Lily Templeton