Valentin Yudashkin’s collection left many bemused after his bow. Was it really a single collection that had just walked the runway? His spring/summer 2013 collection was a very blunt play on the masculine/feminine theme.
That’s not to say that what was presented didn’t have any merit to start with, but it was just so polarized that it might as well been two different shows. Could this just be slated to Slavic exuberance?
The first part had a preppy vibe to it. Smartly tailored blazers, fluid jerseys segued into tailored little dresses. It was tight and very 90s inspired. Gradually, the more feminine looks were worked into the collection. Hips were highlighted. Sequins started growing along the silhouettes, until it became a mirror-ball of a dress. Swimwear and flowing chiffon creations were billed as “graphical explosions,” which described the vivid slashes of color that danced on the runway. Finally, embroidered gowns featured almost entirely in sequins, embroideries, and every kind of embellishment possible.
A rain of sequins was left on the runway after the last passage, hinting that the collection may not have been as polished as it could have needed. As for their quality, even the sugar-cube sized pieces were extremely light, a good thing considering their number, but hinting at rationalization that may have resulted in their presence on the floor.
This was how the masculine/feminine theme would have been interpreted in the 90s, and despite some wise color matching and tailoring, it felt dated. Before any of Yudashkin’s work can successfully translate onto Parisian runways, it will need to be dialed down a notch.
- Lily Templeton