“Its about anger, in a way,” said Ennio Capasa backstage before his show, “I think there is a rage feeling now from the younger generation, a real rebel feeling, and this is always a source of energy for me,” continued the designer whose mood board for the show featured black and white photos of young men screaming and the movie poster for the polarizing French film "La Haine" about disfranchised inner city youth.
Adolescent angst, and the whole “fight the establishment” attitude has often inspired Capasa in the past. So this show felt like more of a variation on a well-lovely theme, rather than any sort of major new direction for the house. Once again the collection was chock-a-block with black, in all its many shades, with just a band of chalk white on the bottom of a jacket or on the inside of a coat collar and a couple of pairs of electric blue pants to brake up the noir notions of this collections.
The designer did away with any embellishments that looked too corporate (no ties, no button-up shirts or cufflinks) using sporty zipper closures and aggressive zip up bags to keep this collection firmly set on the city streets. The one time Capasa flirted with a business suit it came cut from a black-on-black pinstripe mohair that had been blended with a nylon fiber. Giving it a high tech look and feel. Fabric experimentation, something the designer is passionate about, also showed up on a raw silk jacket whose frayed threads looked stylishly disheveled and a bumpy black sweater, its graphic patter created by a new machine that was able to recreate computer generated micro designs, pointed to a direction worth exploring more in the future.
Its good to have a designer like Capasa who continues to experiment and challenge himself with fabric innovations. But it would be nice to see him rebel just a smidge more against his own hallmark style.
- Jessica Michault