Jil Sander - Menswear - Fall Winter 2013 - Milan

12 Jan 2013
Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Milan

Nobody does chic icy cold outerwear better than Jil Sander and she was in her wheelhouse with this winter 2013 collection. It had a highbrowed grace to it, which transformed the youthful male models into refined, reserved men.

Everything was cut with the idea of lengthening the body. The controlled volume of the great coats (AKA redingotes) lovingly enveloped the models and gave them a formal air in their single color variations of navy blue or hunter green. More inviting options where those cut in a chalk line pinstripe or a faded red and blue check fabric that echoed the shades used for the head to toe red or blue ensembles that opened the show.

There was a subtle play on duality throughout this fine collection. From the sleeveless almost tunic-like cashmere sweaters with a vertical bi-color split down the torso and the double collar coats to the stylish stacking of different sized envelope bags tucked under the models arms or the inserts of shaved fur on the sleeves of a top. Even the way the designer layered some of her clothing so that there was an overall tiered effect underlined this idea of repetition.

As much as this show looked polished there was also a real sense of sturdiness to the collection. The pinstripe suits, that lost their stripes towards the center of the jacket, or the graphic crisscross style of the turtle neck sweaters- both worn with straight, ankle length pants and hardy leather boots, looked as if they could stand the test of time. They were true investment pieces (just like those striking overcoats) that are sure to serve a man well for more than just next winter.

- Jessica Michault