This season, Martine Sitbon was all about weave games. As it was suggested by the interplay of waft and warp yarns, that adorned the upper front of the first silhouettes, Rue du Mail's autumn-winter 2013/14 show was a successful exercise of textures.
The magnified yarn-motif was the most recurrent element of the show, next to the many Orchid-patches and embroideries that were highlighting the fitted silhouettes. The belted wrap-coat and shearling coat with a fur collar and fur detailing on its sleeves, that kicked-off the show, were both crafted from woolen herringbone fabric and a particular eye-catcher that announced further takes on both, woven and non-woven fabrics.
In this context, Sitbon played with oversized warp knit embroideries on high-waisted, three-hole dresses and jumpers, that repeated as detailing on sleeves. Next to her knitted experimentations, the designer suggested heavy furs, salt and pepper tweeds, and shiny silk twills for the upcoming winter, that were used for belted overcoats, shift and long-sleeved dresses.
Bicolor – egg shell and salmon – turtleneck dresses, as well as Sitbon's many burgundy, bronze and charcoal colored iridescent geometrical patterns embraced Rue du Mail's feminine style. For her last silhouettes, Martine Sitbon created eye-popping, watercolor paint-like animal prints, that included random dots now and then were reminiscent of last season's experimental dot print. This said, these safari-prints and orchid embroideries imposed a bolder tone: Is Sitbon going all tropical next season?
- Elisabeta Tudor