From Lou Doillon to Cara Delevingne – Vanessa Bruno's muses evolved just as her collections have. Gone are the casual urban and girly bourgeois-bohème aesthetics, that shaped her previous spring-summer 2013 collection. This season a palpable preppiness set the tone – but the one that came with an edge, reminding us that there is much more to be read beneath the cover.
Upon first glance, three strong looking pinstripe suits kicked off the runway. Almost exaggeratedly ample, the ensembles were consisting of drop-crotched pantsuits, point collar shirts and rather wide, padded shoulders that gave the tuxedo a somewhat sloppy fit. But then, wait a minute, the models were actually perched on eye-popping silver or shiny black feminine high heels and the neckties were just a fake: a successful trompe-l’oeil effect, that made a shirt's black button placket look like an actual tie. We must admit, dear Mrs Bruno, you almost got us.
It is as if the designer mocked her own silhouettes. You thought you'd get an androgynous collection? As if! Already after the first looks, the suggested manly aesthetics of the autumn-winter 2013/14 womenswear were reduced to the core. Only the quintessence of masculinity was maintained now and then, in an emblematic manner, through a pair of loose-fit tuxedo pants, a sharply peaked lapel collar, and more generally, through the stiff and sleek fit of Bruno's caban and raglan coats.
Pleated skirts with vinyl finishings and woolen miniskirts textured with leather-panelings, added a cheeky tone to the rather formal fit. Then, Vanessa Bruno left the preppy business look of the day, for the sophisticated and glamorous outfit of the night: black and white pleated apron dresses were a particular eye-catcher, next to strictly cut raglan coats, that came with subtly quilted leather detailing on shoulders, collars and patched pockets.
Then, towards the end, Cara Delevingne came, all dressed in a black and white embroidered tinsel dress with graphical patterns. Probably the collection's highlight, if one relies on the nosy murmurs that started as soon as the new it-girl hit the catwalk. This said, the highly desirable bucket bags, crafted from white leather, will be best-sellers for sure.
- Elisabeta Tudor