Alexis Mabille Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2012 Paris

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Alexis Mabille Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2012 Paris

When Alexis Mabille was propelled into the spotlight two years ago, his bowties immediately garnered attention. They’ve become part of the label’s visual identity and the designer played them up this season in a collection entitled, Let me be Bow-Bo. 

‘’It’s a mix of things from everywhere, that’s why I called the collection let me be a bo-bo. You know, those young French girls, they wake up and go out at 9AM using a coat they borrowed from their grandmother,’’ Mabille said backstage before the show. The girls were not disheveled nor clad in furs from her mother’s closet. Instead they had that freshly sexy sensibility we’ve seen in his ready-to-wear collections. 

The bourgeois-bohemian, or bo-bo, said Mabille, likes music (djs in particular), museums and culture. She likes fashion- naturally- and is chic (it goes without saying). Unlike a hipster she holds a job that doesn’t necessarily have to do with the arts, nor does she spend too much time obsessing about it. But like any true Parisian, the interest in the arts is simply are in her DNA.

The story of the collection revolves around a Parisian girl who doesn’t plan to be hip; she’s simply born with that je ne sais quoi attitude and the knowledge of what she likes, which includes cupcakes at the bakery du jour. This is the kind of woman, said Mabille, who rolls out of bed in the morning and doesn’t spend too much time fixing her hair. So we saw the models with their hair tied up above their head in an imperfect bun- as we see real bo-bo Parisians do- and their makeup almost invisible. A real bo-bo prefers a dewy face; after all, her beauty comes from where it matters most: an almost flippant, but always charming demeanor.

Bows were printed on blouses, scarves, cardigans and were used on bracelets, earrings, and bags. When styled with non-bow-printed fabrics, the looks were polished and pretty. The feather-y coats and skirts, ‘‘done with a twist’’, had a witty spirit; feathers looked like they were flying in all directions, and had the same kind of don’t-really-mind-aura as the hastily tied hairdos. A red dress with large bows on the shoulders gave the show a fun ending. But these funky touches were mere accents in a ready-to-wear collections that was clean and couth; like his previous ready-to-wear collections, the skirts, pants and jackets ensembles were made to go effortlessly, and wearably, from day to evening. 

Mabille said that his favourite piece in the collection were the dresses with tulle. ‘‘The bows are embroidered and it’s very graphic.’’ Other pieces he enjoyed making were the ones where the bows were placed together so compactly that the motif almost- but not quite- disappeared.

-Ria de Borja