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Couture: Back To The Eighties

By Jessica Bumpus

How long has it been since we’ve seen a twirl on the catwalk? Surely, at least 20 years, more – it so belonging to the supermodel era, of shows pre-Nineties with austere angst, of an Eighties...

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Dior and Chanel: From Mystical Surrealism to Floral Impressionism

By Elisabeta Tudor

Seeing, being seen and everything (artistic, theatrical and mystical) in between was the theme of Maria Grazia Chiuri's Spring/Summer 2018 Haute Couture collection for Dior – and the one of the...

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Proenza Schouler Go Back to Their Roots

By Marta Represa

Last season marked the first time Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez left the cheery New York fashion crowds for the much more critical – often blasé – Paris one. Their first French outing was...

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Paris Menswear: What You Might Have Missed

By Jessica Bumpus

  The biggest news of Paris menswear fashion week wasn’t something that went down the catwalks. Instead, it was the appointment of Hedi Slimane as the new creative director of Céline – which...

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Under Pressure: How New Brands Break Paris

By Jessica Bumpus

As with London before it this season, Paris has been celebrating the breadth and diversity of talent the industry has, and made a point to welcome a global spectrum of new names to the schedule....

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I Want To Be Forever Young With Dior

By Jessica Bumpus

Last year Kris Van Assche celebrated 10 years at Dior Homme and, after today’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection, it’s not hard to see why. He gets it. And while fashion has been experiencing hires here,...

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Comme des Garçons & VETEMENTS: Rebels at Heart

By Elisabeta Tudor

Yesterday, two of the most anticipated designer brands showcased their Fall/Winter 2018 men's collections in Paris: Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and VETEMENTS. Comparing the two in one and the same...

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Take Three Trends: Trench Skirts Cybergoth-Trousers and Purple

By Jessica Bumpus

Never mind the adage that “three makes a trend,” let us instead take three trends – albeit they be potentially weird and wonderful – that have made the leap from catwalk to memory...

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A Case For the Return of Real Romance

By Jessica Bumpus

Is it just me, or does the time feel entirely right to put the spotlight back on designers like Ann Demeulemeester and Yohji Yamamoto? Masters perhaps more prominently of seasons past, but somewhat...

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Paris Menswear So Far: A Youthful Pursuit

By Elisabeta Tudor

Where are all the gray-haired, 40-something fine dandies, you ask? Not in Paris, that's all we know. Streetwear is still a worldwide obsession, low and high dichotomies (“sophisticated” vs....

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Kim Jones' Last Tribute to Louis Vuitton

By Elisabeta Tudor

Jones has headed up menswear at Louis Vuitton for seven years. The British artistic director is rumored to take over the reins of Burberry soon and was previously eyed by Versace. LOUIS...

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Millennial Eye Candy at Valentino

By Marta Represa

Think the Gen Z winners of the Italian version of The Voice make unlikely front row guests at Valentino? Think again. Yesterday’s show, held as usual at the Hotel de Rothschild, proved ideal for...

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Gosha Rubchinskiy: “Who cares about fashion trends?”

By Elisabeta Tudor

Russian designer and Comme des Garçons protégé Gosha Rubchinskiy is not to be put in a box: while fashion's crème de la crème is currently staging menswear shows in Paris, Gosha chose – once again...

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Palomo Spain's Unique Approach to Sexuality

By Marta Represa

It has been a long time since this editor was last at a fashion show filled with fabulous club kids. It has also been a long time since I witnessed an openly humorous collection. It was a tall...

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Milan Menswear: Moments to Remember

By Marta Represa

This season may have been calmer than usual in the Italian fashion capital. With Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Ferragamo having deserted the men’s shows to present joint collections during womenswear,...