Comme des Garcons Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

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Comme des Garcons Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

This season the Comme des Garçons man is embracing his fragility. Moving away from the playful energy of last season’s show, which featured Mickey Mouse ears and pastel outfits cut from chenille, Rei Kawakubo created a collection that has a sensitive center.

The models, their hair flatted down and their black eye makeup running as if they had just been doused with water, walked the runway in outfits crafted from feather light pieces. Kawakubo used cut away jackets that left exposed at the front and back the elongated layers of tiered fabrics that formed the tops to each look. Pants too were designed with a delicate spirit, ruched over the leg in a parachute silk fabric or in a graphic patchwork pattern that finished with frayed edges.

Sometimes the designer would block the movement of the wispy ensembles by capping them off with leather tops that were fitted to the body via straps at the back. But thankfully they only made a brief appearance on the catwalk.

There were also hints of the playfulness of last season’s collection in the brightly colored cartoon motif fabric the designer used to create a series of outfits that echoed the black and gray versions that preceded them. But it was when the designer brought in a bit of grunge, in the form of “Nirvana” plaids that the collection really started to take form.

It was this idea of pulling apart classic tailoring to give it a disheveled and disordered grace that helped this collection to take flight. Where each wrinkle was worn like a badge of honor and  each torn sleeve or ragged pair of
pants a sartorial statement worthy of a man willing to bare his soul.  

- Jessica Michault