Cristiano Burani Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 Milan

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Cristiano Burani Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 Milan

Ah, normcore.  It was only a matter of time before the word turned up on show notes, as it did today to qualify Cristiano Burani's summer collection. These were indeed clothes made to be worn without a sense of occasion, seamlessly fitting into a less-is-more notion of reclaimed collective identity.

But the designer's spin on the cool kids came with lithe updates that sparked interest. Sharply crinkled textures identified a parka; macro-checks embroidered on a top broke up the monotony of the motif; and experimentation with texture distinguished simple enough shapes tailored for casual ease. Think a crisp white sleeveless vest or a floor gazing pleated number, trimmed with striped Gros-grain for her. Or a checkered skirt with a snazzy see-through panel at nipple level for him, or heavy contouring stitches on raw indigo, and  the pieces carried familiar ease but didn't melt under scrutiny. A later group of pastel checks felt a bit more standardized and too anonymous.

In the end, the only true-to-trend elements were the flatform creepers and pool slides. Buzzwords aside, improbable fabrics and shape combinations had the jolie-laide appeal of youth. But the jury is still out - will they age well, or will they suffer the fate of many a 90s snapshot, forever relegated as cringe-worthy episodes?