The DNA of the Calvin Klein brand is now firmly set in stone. Thus any collection sent down the catwalk must always tick the same sartorial boxes. It has to be minimal. It must look clean. And it most certainly should be sober. With that framework in mind it remains fascinating to see how designer Francisco Costa consistently and creatively comes up with new adaptations of the aesthetic.
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On the last day of New York Fashion Week Ralph Lauren showed the fashion world what sartorial luxury, American style, is all about.
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Three cheers for Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez.
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In the program notes for the Marchesa show the designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig revealed that the famous seventeenth-century panting “Portrait of Maria Teresa de Vallabriga on Horseback,” by Francisco de Goya was the genesis of their gown filled fall/winter 2013 collection.
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The furtastic J Mendel show made a powerful plea for bringing pelts back into fashion. Granted the return of furs into the fashion fold has been well underway for a few seasons now. But if ever there was a collection designed to convince those still fur free women it was time to take the plunge and invest it was this fall/winter 2013 show.
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Come hell or high water Rachel Zoe is staying true to who she is. And that is a floopy hat, 70s era, shaggy fur coat loving gal who knows how to pull a look together.
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Michael Kors is on the hunt next winter. And the hunting grounds for his fall/winter 2013 collection are where the designer feels most in his element, the urban big city streets of America.
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Continuing on where he left off last season designer Narcisco Rodriguez resumed his exploration of how to loosen up his highly tailored hold on fashion while still staying true to the structured feel that has so defined his body of work. It is not an easy task but the designer found a way to seamlessly blend the two concepts in this strong fall/winter 2013 show.
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To make a collection that is wearable but has an original point of view and is timeless yet modern is probably one of the hardest nuts to crack in the fashion game. With her fall/winter 2013 show the French designer Sophie Theallet did exactly that.
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Season after season Rodarte designer’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy create one of the most off the wall and thought provoking shows of New York Fashion Week. And they didn’t disappoint this time with a collection that felt closer to home and a bit more personal then some of their more recent outings.
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