Felipe Oliveira Baptista Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

Read article
  • 239053
  • 239056
  • 239059
  • 239062
  • 239065
  • 239068
  • 239069
  • 239072
  • 239078
  • 239089
  • 239092
  • 239095
  • 239098
  • 239107
  • 239113
  • 239116
  • 239122
  • 239131
  • 239134
  • 239137
  • 239240
  • 239243
  • 239246
  • 239249
  • 239258
  • 239259
  • 239262
  • 239266
  • 239269
  • 239272
  • 239275
  • 239287
  • 239290
  • 239304
-44093

Felipe Oliveira Baptista Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

Restraint so obviously suits Felipe Oliveira Baptista that a summertime redux of last season’s pared down vision, passed muster with sensual melancholy. Beyond the knee jerk appeal of a sleeveless safari shirtdress, a Majorelle belted trench was the appealing complexity of a trompe-l’oeil jumpsuit, and of a wardrobe made both for moving and to move along.

Moving further into his exploration of uniforms – here, he was outright into army territory – FOB delivered a collection where femininity reigned through rethought structure. If there was ever a moment to epitomize its triumph, it was in the daringly bare back of a floor sweeping ice blue gown. The increased fluidity faded much of the stern martial undertones. Meanwhile, his cuts, flowing down from a proportionate shoulder line, carried a deliberateness that speaks volumes about his architectural leanings; its functionality gave it a certain “Out of Africa” appeal of simmering sensuality in restraint. The best looks were those that saw Baptista make use of jacquards infused with lurex that caught the light. He used it sparingly, a palate cleanser of sorts where one color would wear off to reveal the next.

There were pieces in which it is of the utmost importance to live; at rest, they are beautiful, in movement, their mathematical symmetries, broken by the body, are stellar. Dichotomies have been a pivotal element in FOB’s work, but here, the dynamic result was more than the sum of its halves.