Hussein Chalayan Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2012 Paris

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Hussein Chalayan Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2012 Paris

 

Hussein Chalayan’s AW2012 collection was about structure and form. Ensembles looked as if they’d been made during a highly advanced origami class with certain parts cleverly  slipping round or nipping into others. Other outfits had gapping holes left open to reveal the layers beneath. In terms of colour, outfits were dipped in reds, burgundy, mahogany browns and navy. A brief flash of fluorescent orange and green was a welcome addition and the two-tone colour choices often worked well; mustard yellow and teal was a particular favourite thus adding a touch of 70s flare.

The show displayed a lot of contrast. Structured day-wear including tapered trousers, fitted dresses and oversized boyfriend blazers, not forgetting the variety of warm winter coats; zipped up pieces, three-quarter trenches and one-buttoned single breasted jackets. When it came to evening looks, Chalayan injected movement from the hip down - floor-length and tight-fitting gowns followed every stride of the models’ step. Towards the end of the show he surprised the audience with three ensembles in which models sported human sandwich boards, again with a cut out section to reveal what lay beneath.

As for accessories, the sexy suede court shoe was followed by masculine brogues. To jazz them up a bit, it was nice to see Chalayan mixing the latter with metallic gold and silver. Not too much and not too little. All in all, just right.

www.husseinchalayan.com

- Pascale Barget