Issey Miyake Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

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Issey Miyake Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

There must be an explanation to how the design team behind Issey Miyake menswear has been able to tap into the weather so precisely that their shows are spot on. This time, heat conservation was a more than welcome preoccupation on one of the coldest days this winter.

Where last season had left off, leaving the skin in contact with much air, fall-winter 2013/2014 has left few openings for the chill to sneak in.  Trouser legs were tucked into utilitarian boots, and when the hem crept up towards the knee, so did thicker knit socks.

With Issey Miyake now firmly directing the Reality Lab, their experimentation is concentrated on taking away much of the bulk involved in the colder months, and replaced it with highly technical fabrics, with padding added for aesthetics more than warmth.

Upcycling fabrics and creating unusual blends took the forefront once again, as the initial series focused on a nylon and paper blend, woven from surplus of previous collections. On sleeves peeking out, telltale folds hinted to the reuse of folding techniques developed for Miyake’s 132 5 line.

Out of season translucence makes an appearance to demonstrate the possibilities of their brand new film mesh, by revealing flashes of acid bright colors underneath. Metallic accents grew into panels and then into full suits of shimmering material said to generate as much warmth as several emergency blankets. For sure, the light reflecting off of them was as golden as any sunny light.

Whether used for utilitarian loose cargo pants or sharper suits, all fabrics proved to be versatile enough to transition from leisure to business. More than the pieces themselves, it is the techniques that set Issey Miyake’s menswear apart: a blend of high-tech and ancestral artisanship that propelled this collection well beyond the borders of mere garment creation.



- Lily Templeton