Julius Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris

On the night of the Julius Spring Summer 2015 show, stroboscopic lamps were flashing through the entire basement of the Maison des Métallos while models were storming over the catwalk, in a collection that was dedicated to Hans Rudolf Giger, the Swiss surrealist painter, sculptor, and set designer, who passed away on May 12 earlier this year.

Tatsuro Horikawa’s offering, entitled ‘Prism’, was inspired by the work of different artists including Wade Guyton and Naum Gabo. The collection started with a parade of all black looks in rubber (referring to fetishism), coating, metallic, and inorganic matter, all highlighted by the runway spotlights and the models stark white hair in the dark basement.

Soon after that, in complete contrast, crisp white (metallic, almost mother-of-pearl) outfits followed, reflecting in the lights, flashing for a few milliseconds each but entirely fast.

Interesting to see at the show, were the voluminous coats and jackets worn with tight drop crotch pants, executed in both black and white. Other key items in this collection were the high collar tops, v-necks with oversized sleeves, and three-dimensional shirts. “By placing things over each other, I am trying to create a 3D effect,” said Horikawa backstage.

“The shoes are actually the most symbolic for my prismatic inspiration,” Horikawa explained. The black boots were provided with soles made out of multiple prism shapes, in changing directions. Ankle boots alongside high boots, almost knee-length, again referring to fetishism, were perfect for the storming models competing with the lights.