The race for Dior's next designer goes on! After the latest rumors stating first that Raf Simons, then that Haider Ackermann would be taking the infamous job, the newest drama concerns no other than Léonard's freshly nominated creative director Maxime Simoens, who is rumored to leave the brand after his first season for Dior. Looks like the fashion musical chairs are not about to stop! Failing to have an answer to this gossip, we can at least reassure you that Maxime Simoens – whether he will continue to lead Léonard's creative direction or not – did a jolly good job at today's autumn-winter 2012/13 show.
There is even more drama out there – and this time it's not about Simoens' position but the show itself: the designer pays homage to the recently deceased icon Whitney Houston with a club version of “Heartbreak Hotel” (embedded link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEmdW3_bi4c). This said, the catchy song did not only serve as musical understatement of the show but gave its name to the new autumn-winter 2012/13 collection. Simoens' silhouettes were for sure Diva worthy! “I want to reinterpret Leonard's identity with a certain twist and by staying true to today's fashion.” stated the young designer recently before his show.
Therefore, we spotted Léonard's three entities in this new collection – the Asian influence, the signature band which finished off the garment and the flower prints – all showcased with contemporary details, such as lacquering, embossing and laser cuts. For instance, black jersey dresses are stamped with paisley patterns. Crystal embroideries on knitted muslin dresses or short golden dresses printed with oversized flowers come along with shimmery embossed leather jackets or short fur boleros. The designer accentuates the feminine silhouette through sharp geometrical lines that finish off nearly each garment – something that hasn't been seen at Léonard before. And still, although this is Simoen's modern take on Léonard's identity, you'd still find the heavy Asian influence through belts of geisha dresses, long sleeved tuxedos that play with the edgy patterns of an imperial robe and countless variations of Asian inspired flowers, such as cherry blossoms and orchid prints.
“Gaspar Noé's latest film Enter the Void inspired me regarding architecture, paintings and music”, stated young designer Maxime Simoens regarding his latest Haute Couture SS 2012 show of his eponym brand. Somehow we have a feeling that Noé's twisted Tokyo Odyssey has been an influence again, although in a more girly and cheeky way this time.
- Elisabeta Tudor