Whenever show season swings round, it's impossible not to compile a mental shopping list. Ours begins here.
Craig Green FW18 menswear show in London. Picture by Regis Colin Berthelier.
"Human tents" is how Craig Green explained the resulting look of the child-like lens through which his Autumn/Winter 2018 collection was conceived. A gorgeous colour palette – especially tactile textiles, folded constructions, and tech-y twists – compounded just why he's one of London's best menswear talents now. But it was this look, featuring all of the aforementioned ingredients, that stole the show. And should this shade not be for you, it came in a lot of other variable tones, too.
Alex Mullins FW18 menswear show in London. Picture by Guillaume Roujas.
Bright, fun, expertly cut, Mullins knows how to make good clothes with verve and personality and this is the suit of the season. Sunglasses on, confidence good to go.
J. JS Lee FW18 menswear show in London. Picture by Regis Colin Berthelier.
"It's something I've always wanted to do," said Jackie Lee of her debut menswear collection which we have on good authority was a breeze to create. "I didn't put myself under any pressure – it was no stress. I just really enjoyed it," she smiled. "It's very British tailoring with J. JS Lee twists." In fact, hers is an aesthetic that has always leant itself well to menswear and it was almost a surprise to find out that she hadn't already done this, such is her readily suited style. It is not, however, a surprise to learn that upon seeing this capsule collection it's been a hit with the girls. "A lot of them have said they want it," she laughed. For boys or girls, this is the look that caught our eye.
Wales Bonner FW18 menswear show in London. Picture by Regis Colin Berthelier.
The Central Saint Martins graduate has coined the shrunken jacket silhouette, above. A collection of hers wouldn't be a collection of hers without it.
Daniel W. Fletcher FW18 menswear show in London. Picture by Guillaume Roujas.
Sportswear and streetwear is finally done. Its riffs and copies and pastiche pin-ups now look tired on the catwalk and it's time to move on. To what? Romance, whimsy, and bohemia – but not in the Gucci sense. No, we're talking Ann Demeulemeester style. Louche and easy. In London and we started to see it creep into Daniel W. Fletcher's collection for pyjama shirting and neckties and trousers slit out at the ankle. Take note of this prediction.