We’ve started the year with a lot of questions. These are uncertain times, after all. And among those in question is the fashion landscape right now, and beyond. What is a dead cert? That London can still lay claim to some of the most exciting menswear designers. Here are London’s leading names right now.
JW Anderson Fashion Show Menswear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in London (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
This guy has charisma! And this was one of his most wearable collections yet, taking key pieces, like the pierced bag, and updating it to even more covetable status, not to mention practical effect. There was plenty of product to be found here, not just concept. And that’s the winning ticket.
Matthew Miller Fashion Show Menswear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in London (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
Always one to wear his political heart on his sleeve, what’s great about Miller is that the clothes don’t get lost to that, something that can all too easily happen. His signature is precise and refined – great cuts for practical clothing that has an increased level of sophistication about it. This was a clever way to make both points.
Alex Mullins Fashion Show Menswear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in London (by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)
Gingham, patchwork, and high-vis: that’s quite the combination – but one that worked a treat in the hands of Alex Mullins. It shouldn’t be any surprise really – he’s an alumni of both Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art. There’s something fun, bright, and fresh about what he does – and the clothes you see on the catwalk could have clearly stepped from the designer’s own wardrobe, all high-waisted denim to contrast loose layers, fun with that jaunty patchwork, but functional too.
Craig Green Fashion Show Menswear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in London (by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)
Recent winner of the Best Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards, it’s no wonder. Craig Green managed to push forward his trademark layered-utility and expand it into rich craftwork for patchwork and tapestry coats. It was still him no doubt, but where it could be easy to get stuck in a rut, he managed to propel it forward, while also making reference to the current and inherent need for protection and armour right now. This also had more wardrobe appeal than in previous seasons, coats more obviously coats than the collaged-together approach of the past.
MAN Fashion Show Menswear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in London (by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)
OK, granted, this is not a commercial collection and this is not a commercial designer. But Charles Jeffrey is a designer who’s conjuring back up that London spirit circa a decade ago when Nu Rave was making waves, when London was having a heyday of slightly mad but brilliant fashion – he himself is a nu-wave-club-kid. This was mad alright, and kind of brilliant, too. And, like so many other designers this week – Matthew Miller, Liam Hodges, and Christopher Shannon among them – was a reaction to now, to what’s going on. Because that really is the only question anyone is asking: what’s going on?