As fashion power houses go, Louis Vuitton and Supreme are it. The former the epitome of luxury and aspiration and the latter the epitome of cool and aspiration. What happens when they join forces? The fashion world spontaneously combusts with more covetable clothes than you could possibly imagine. And that's really all the context you need to know about today's Louis Vuitton show, one that confirmed the social media rumours and in a funny twist of fate saw the two brands come full circle in their relationship. Supreme famously got in trouble years ago when it used the LV monogram logo without the mega brand's permission, something it's not all that keen on happening. But that's what made this such a spot-on collection.
Louis Vuitton Menswear Fall Winter 2017 Collection in Paris (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
"It's a great idea and a really clever move," enthused British GQ's Grace Gilfeather after the show. Meanwhile, mid-show a message from my brother - a die-hard Supreme shopper - pops up and confirms the same. "From bootleg to catwalk!"
Expect this to sell out and to experience even longer queues than those that wind down and around your local Supreme every Thursday when a new crop of clothes drop when the collection eventually hits LV stores.
Supreme is known for its collaborations and it's known for being simply cool. Born in New York in 1994, it's become a style emblem of the city. And this, too, is what Kim Jones was tapping into for Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2017, inspired by the city from the Seventies through to the early Nineties. "No New York City men's conversation is complete without Supreme," said Jones in his show notes. "It's uptown and downtown, artists and musicians, friends and heroes."
It was also the perfect blend of logo mania. Supreme-slogan bags in red and white worn with LV monogram at the same time. Just when you thought you couldn't wear too many logos together and adhere to the less-is-more train of thought, well, rethink that. Well, only if they're LV and Supreme, of course. It really worked here. And that's not only because the two brands are badges of conspicuous consumption on the kudos front but because they really know how to design, too. And here it was, again, just right, for a loose and relaxed line that felt just polished enough too.
"I loved the silhouettes, it was beautiful and clean and done very sensibly," pointed out Gilfeather. Chains hung street smart; shirts trailed in an elegant unkempt fashion; baseball shirts were denim and logo-ed times two; macs had a sophistication and caps kept it youthful. It was a seriously strong collection that towed the line in just the way you'd want it to - for both brands. Which will serve them well too.
Fashion right now is about currency more then ever and tapping into the audience. Supreme has a cult following. And without meaning to typecast, it has a youth following too. Kids save up for that T-shirt or that skate deck. Just as Dolce & Gabbana had done in Milan, Louis Vuitton was tuning into something dynamic and youthful too. Of course, logos have always been a part of the LV history and Marc Jacobs during his day was a keen collaborator with artists on the accessory front to make the heritage house more relevant.
And as an overarching trend right now, Fall/Winter 2017 certainly seems to be about just that.