Qasimi Homme Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

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Qasimi Homme Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

After showing a preview in London to reaffirm the profoundly British DNA of his eponymous brand, Khalid Al Qasimi expanded on this initial appetizer on a Parisian runway, still in the thrall of his initial inspiration. Exploring the border between sanity and psychosis, Qasimi shows the two faces of a man: his public face and the face of his perversions. Qasimi explains, “I was feeling an elegant mood, a bit unpredictable behind the mask of the man. You don’t know what you’re going to get but at least he’s perfectly dressed.” On the runway, this unsettling atmosphere played out in little details, from socks missing, to models striding the runway fully dressed save for their silk boxer shorts. Hair was parted down the middle, seeming still wet –from showering off the blood of his latest victim?

The imbalance in proportions of oversized drop shoulders and voluminous sleeves, wide legged trousers, as well as unexpected variations in thickness added drama. On a sweater, the two back-to-back outlines of the same face hint to the man and his alter ego, prolonged by the extensive use of technical materials coupled with more luxurious ones. Wool and silk jacquards were bonded onto neoprene, allowing greater control on the volumes. Classic coat shapes felt excitingly updated by woven motifs in a palette of muted but handsome colors like petrol, burgundy or chocolate, on a backdrop of black. Leather and shearling gave a decadent touch of luxury to this aesthetically pleasing offering.

Qasimi has once again pulled off the triumvirate of a successful collection: a good theme, solid, relatable execution and undeniable talent, positioning himself firmly in the running for long-term success both on the runway and on the racks.

– Lily Templeton