Rick Owens Menswear Fall Winter 2012 Paris

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Rick Owens Menswear Fall Winter 2012 Paris

 

As legions of mini Rick Owens sneak up on the runways every season, the ‘Prince of Darkness’ has to reinvent himself ad eternam to remain unique.

Last season, he thought up a gender studies goldmine with somber male robes (dresses and skirts in my opinion); this season he shocked crowds with a sporty collection – believe it or not, to some of his fans, this is far more outrageous.

Yet he did so in a distinctively Rick manner: tank top peaking through sheer jersey turtle-necks, aqua sheer blue tops in rainproof material and white trainer all perpetuated the label’s constant balance between delicate, dark and ergonomic.

The show oscillated between classic male references – gelled side-parting, sensible suits, and clean-cut jumpers, and female detailing, including bellow-the-breast buttoning echoing empire cuts or elongated high-waist trousers.

For those about to leave the venue thinking Rick had become more tamed, the last few looks proved otherwise: cashmere floor length skirts and a long black coat poured out, all for a rather Cruella Deville look – making the designer as impossible to categorize as always.

-Alice Pfeiffer