Rick Owens Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

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Rick Owens Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

Over the years the Rick Owens fashion shows have built up a reputation for creating some of the most original, thought provoking, and often poetic mise-en-scene in the business. With his Spring/Summer 2014 menswear show Owens took the theatrics to a whole new level.

He turned to the hirsute Estonian punk/metal band Winny Puhh to play a live set while his slender framed male models stalked the runway in sporty looks designed for the disenfranchised youth of contemporary society. The furry faced band (yes the Wolf Man should come to mine) fully dominated the space, leaving little room for the enthralled audience to tear their eyes away long enough to notice the sports world inspired looks like the oversized basketball jersey tops, the wide open perforated leather details on sleeves and hemlines or the clinical zipper embellished outerwear. Not even the debut of the space age sneakers Owens designed in collaboration with Adidas could hold the crowd’s attention for very long.

But maybe that was exactly the point. For as much as the music was challenging, the clothing was actually very commercial.  Gone were the strange shoulder proportions, the overlong sleeves and the impractical- but iconic- footwear. In their stead were pieces that had a real chance of appealing to men who don’t count themselves as Rick Owens devotees.

Take away all of the bells and whistles- make that banjos, spinning drum sets and band members being hung upside down by one foot- and this menswear collection proved itself to have more then a few pieces that will stay in heavy rotation not just next summer, but for quite a few years to come.

- Jessica Michault