Rochas Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 Paris

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Rochas Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 Paris

It takes a certain amount of gumption to decide that the first five looks in your show are going to be in a dirt brown shade and without any embellishments, save perhaps a matching stiff bow at the neck and a pair of fur or beaded heeled footwear.

Well, that is exactly what Rochas’s designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua did. It was almost as if he wanted to prove a point (or two). First, that he can master austere minimalist just as well as the next guy. And second, his icy 1950s Hitchcockian heroines can do and wear whatever they bloody well please.

And while not every modern woman will be convinced to give up her little black shift dress in exchange for one in brown, she might be persuaded to try one in a speckled charcoal or dove grey, two alternatives that also took a turn up later on the catwalk. There will surely be a few that will happily try on for size one of the Dell'Acqua other touchy-feely designs. A wide-lapeled marigold-colored coat for one. And a series of faux déshabillé dresses, which used a blending of different fabrics and embellishments across the body to make the garment appear as if it had been pulled back and undone, were some others. 

Later, when the models did end up wearing roomy sheer black lace slip dresses that left the lingerie apparent, the effect was less appealing. Sometimes the suggestion of skin is more seductive than the real thing. 

Dell'Acqua also brought back his birds’ motif. These Swallows seem to have become the mascot of the Rochas brand, having appeared in a number of ensembles since the designer’s appointment to the job. They are also a deferential nod to the 1934 bird-themed collection by the brand's founder.  This time those swooping black-beaded Swallows added just a soupçon of something sinister into the feminine mix.

Hitchcock would have loved it.