Frock coats, brocade, period dressing, 18th century aristocratic French garments, billowing blouses, waistcoats – and a Stranger Things T-shirt: Nicolas Ghesquière threw quite the curve ball to end the Spring/Summer 2018 season, one which has arguably been something of a stranger thing to unravel itself.
Louis Vuitton SS18 - Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION
A historic plunder through time to unearth pieces we're not used to seeing and placing them in a modern wardrobe, it wasn't entirely what we expected – to which we refer you back to the frock coats: embroidered and elaborate in silver and gold and turquoise. But that was, in fact, the point: fashion time travel – and what if certain pieces that existed then, existed now, how would they look? It's something of an open-ended question. It's perhaps also something of a not-very-often-attempted question to answer. We're often so busy looking forward or into the immediate past than back through the history books, themselves now often lost among the Insta pages of time.
Though a frock coat might not be an obvious go-to now, let it grow on you? And in fact think about it a little more and Ghesquière has drawn on the shape in the past, only this time he let it loose with a more romantic and whimsical sentiment, in those fabrications, instead of that exacting strictness we're so used to seeing. So what does one wear with a brocade frock coat, lavish and opulent with embroidery? Little boxing shorts and chunky-clunky trainers.
It was a time-traveller's mash-up of style with one foot very much in the past and one in the future, the apparent future a far more familiar proposition to most (millennials) one imagines than the distant past: see the sneakers for the former and the billowing shirts and lacing for the latter.
There was an expansion of silhouette for dresses that appeared to have bustiers unravel into sleeves, ruffles or coils descending down the arm. And elsewhere dresses were walking snowflakes, crystallised and shimmering, with hi-tech trainers below; a party-time dressing proposition.
"Might it be possible to awaken the clothes of long-gone eras and infuse them with the spirit of today?" asked the show notes.
Potentially, it's a question that remains unanswered right now – it takes time for the eye to adjust to something new, or, in this case, old and historic. But certainly stranger things have happened and certainly on this catwalk they did – that T-shirt will be snapped up for sure.