MILAN—Milan Fashion Week closed without so much as a furry scarf or mitten in sight.
ARTHUR ARBESSER FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Season-less collections were the case at many a show. Military jackets coupled with vintage Hermès foulards were unfurled at the Rossella Jardini presentation in Milan’s upscale Palestra area. A sign of the times, the ex-Moschino creative director, who gravitates towards airy fabrics like Japanese silks and cottons, explained that this season of ready-to-wear was based on the idea that fashion can be for all seasons.
“It’s a no-season collection. Some garments have lining and so they are for winter, but in some you can remove the lining, and some don’t even have the lining,” Jardini said.
Jardini said she was more focused on the concept of “use and reuse, recycle,” in the sense that we don’t throw away what we have in our closets. The military coat served as the centrepiece of her collection because that is an item that every woman should have in their closet all year long.
GIORGIO ARMANI FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
Strangely, spring was in full bloom at Arthur Arbesser whose primary colour floral motif was inspired by Koloman Moser, an Austrian modernist graphic artist who died a century ago.
Garden dresses with balloon hips, silky pantsuits with cowl collars, and springtime coats with exaggerated lapels were splashed with interior-like painted designs, chunky floral, and playful strokes – patterns that appeal to Arbesser’s erudite yet girlish following.
Despite the snowflakes falling on the icy morning streets of Milan, Giorgio Armani’s collection was highlighted by a momentarily pastel palette for his Fall/Winter collection that offered something for every climate – ponchos, sarong skirts, flyaway coats, and upbeat, springtime blazers.
FENDI FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Even furrier houses like Fendi, which has, due to its heritage, been reticent to give up fur as its main Fall/Winter staple, unleashed some surprising summery ensembles – a gauzy, hand-embroidered, sheer hippie dress and a leather jacket to match and, in the same vein, a silk stunner that was worn by Bella Hadid, who finished off the show with a high note.
London-born Sicilian designer Antonio Berardi returned to Milan and showed his pret-à-couture collection that provided variety for all seasons to a small, elite group. Among the red carpet looks of iridescent silk and metallic snake skin patterns, Berardi offered voluminous lightweight taffeta skirts, diaphanous chiffon dresses, and sheer blouses over trousers.
ANTONIO BERRARDI FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Experts say that rising temperatures worldwide and growing markets in key areas like the Middle East and Southern Asia are a few reasons driving this trend that has, by now, taken over the whole world.
In London for example, J.W. Anderson made news by combining his women’s and men’s show under the aegis of a trans-seasonal strategy.
“I think you can be as playful as you want, but I think people want something that lasts all the seasons,” said Berardi.
See ARTHUR ARBESSER's full FW18 collection here.
See GIORGIO ARMANI's full FW18 collection here.
See FENDI's full FW18 collection here.
See ANTONIO BERRARDI's full FW18 collection here.