Trussardi Menswear Fall Winter 2012 Milan

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Trussardi Menswear Fall Winter 2012 Milan

After presenting an Annie Hall inspired collection for his first womenswear collection, Trussardi’s new star designer Umit Benan stuck to flawless 70s chic for the menswear too, inspired by racing car driver and style icon Jackie Stewart. Flares, mustaches and sheepskin jackets opened the show, accessorized with leather, vintage-esque briefcases and weekender bags.

Tinted sunglasses, rust-colored corduroy suits and heeled ankle boots surfed on the same retro-traveler wave, completed by brown knitted jumpers with red leather piecing and matching motorcycle gloves and waxed pumps.

Skinny turtle necks in fine wool and cotton knits, silk ties and fur collars paid a particular attention to necks – a careful detailing bringing a touch of dandy preciousness to an otherwise too cool for school collection. Yet the woollen, belted coats, patterned jumpers and recurrent use of suede perpetuated a more relaxed, iconically 70s looks. Similarly the models, walking through the ground-floor of the Trussardi headquarters restaurant and bar, were directed to grin and pose confidently at the audience holding magnums of champagne and cigars.

A straightforward set of references will please those nostalgic for 70s style, an era when heroes always smiled, sunshine endlessly glinting from their teeth and shades...

-Alice Pfeiffer