Viktor & Rolf Monsieur Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

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Viktor & Rolf Monsieur Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

If the show notes are true the starting point for designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s “Monsieur” menswear collection was the classic Jules Verne novel, A Journey to the Center of the Earth. But anyone watching the show would be hard pressed to see any sartorial link between the monotonous collection and an action-adventure book about trying to reach the earth’s core.

What stood out in this show was the use of prints, with its limited palette of black, white, and gray tones (from gun metal to dove) cut in classically tailored designs. The Dutch duo teamed up with the modern artist Piet Parra to create a number of oddly themed motifs.  There was a floating birdman figure hugging his knees that covered both the show’s backdrop, as well as a sweater and a business suit. Other alternatives included etchings of high tops and black framed eyeglasses that drifted over T-shirts or fitted jeans.  Perhaps the most wearable option, was an alphabet soup of oversized leathers on a slim business shirt.

The prints were interesting if incongruous with the rather traditional slant of Viktor & Rolf’s chosen silhouette. However, it was the only link this collection had to the brands typically quirky aesthetic.  Some might argue that was about time for the house to grow-up and go a bit more commercial.  But if Viktor & Rolf are feeling disconnected from their sartorial sense of fun then it will be the fashion world that suffers.

- Jessica Michault