The world is in disarray that’s for sure – but Viktor & Rolf are out to patch it up. Well, what they can of it. In a continued exploration into their upcycled take on haute couture, they patch-worked and puffa-ed their way through a collection that was first shown on “Viktor & Rolf Action Dolls,” and then on models. One only need look at the images to see the dolls. A little bit scary if you’re not so keen. But, as detailed in the show notes, they were meant to be mascots, carrying this message of unity and, we were told, harmony. This, again, came through the patchwork and joining of different elements together, and the idea of taking fashion’s favourite look right now, streetwear, and re-appropriating it to extreme shapes, but soft with it, to bring it into a new world – a better Viktor & Rolf curated world.
Here is not couture for those who want an extravagant frock; here there was something real, which took the idea of couture but cleverly transposed it onto a recycling mentality – which, let’s face it, we should all be having a going at doing. The craft, the idea, and all that goes with the art of couture is still there, it just gets to last longer and have a few more lifetimes – and surely that’s even more special?
Rendered in Japanese high-tech fabric, puffas and patchwork were indeed the backbone of this collection for splaying shapes and splendid patterns. Some went too big and a little overblown, and it therefore worked best in terms of seeing the clothes themselves on the real models as opposed to the dolls, which took it into another dimension, though that has always really been what Viktor & Rolf is about. In fact, across the board the whole week, the collections that worked best were those that didn’t add too much styling fanfare which, when we’re to see the work and the detail of the dresses et al, to take time to appreciate them, seems like an unnecessary distraction.