Everywhere you look in every collection so far, there's a lot of stuff. Be it surface design and decoration, design quirks and tweaks, layers of stuff to interfere with the silhouette. It's busy. It's also getting a little boring. So praise be for JW Anderson and his very clever style spoke that came today three looks into his Loewe collection.
Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION
It started well enough, his take on the Spanish brand a noted highlight and badge of must-see status among the schedule. There came a lovely long white dress of T-shirt tight shape, pastel patchwork stretching out over it; next came a khaki tunic and loose trousers, a little bit beekeeper, a little bit Craig Green; then it came: a white T-shirt and trousers. That's it. Brilliant. The T-shirt wasn't tucked in and the trousers were loose-ish. It was simple. It was great. It was the look of the collection - which continued then to explore the artisanal side of the designer's talents with tapestry and patchwork and fringe. These were all great looks, don't get me wrong, but it was all about look three.
Why? It comes down to the aforementioned introduction, and it comes down to pace; the more overtly creative pieces worked to magnify and frame look 3, spotlight it for its very simplicity and everyday extraordinariness. Loved it.
Because too much stuff on clothes is difficult to wear. It's cumbersome. And it's no longer modern. It was post-normcore and it is in the eye of sportswear and streetwear overload, perhaps. But as last season we began to see, clothes are returning to clothes. The return of silhouette and sexy, of a great top and a great pair of trousers, a dynamite dress. And in this one look, JW was able to convey that sharp turn.
Last season we saw it at Nina Ricci, at Jacquemus, at Guy Laroche (pre its current new designer) and we saw the similar strategy move of one "simple" look among an array of many vying for attention at Prada too. In true Mary Poppins style, that mist is comin' in, like something's brewin'. Simplicity, brilliant simplicity (aka if you take a look at how it's made it's not simple at all), not minimalism, is what we're looking at now.