Yohji Yamamoto Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

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Yohji Yamamoto Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

Guessing at the particular theme of Yohji Yamamoto’s work is always “choto muzukashi” (a little bit complicated), that traditional über-euphemism Japanese people use to convey something completely impossible. Unless the Japanese designer tells you fair and square, your guess is as good as anyone’s.

In any case, the emergency cone orange of the invitation pointed to something to do with bright colors. And boy, were they, when they finally appeared from behind the opening group of black blazers. The pairings were there for maximum impact, and even further on, when mitigated with black, the hues were highlighter-bright.

Seemingly picking up from an earlier discussion, Yamamoto had a renewed interest in a highlighted female form, as opposed to the voluminous, trailing elaborations he’s usually associated with. Except perhaps in a handful of belted numbers and a trio of men’s formalwear variants, it was all woman, all the way – it was quite blatantly on display under that venetian blinds dress. Sensuality has never felt as present as in this iteration, as fabric clung to all the right places. All this logically pinpoints one thought, “So this is what sexy looks like at Yohji Yamamoto.”

One sheer wine dress had crossing bands of fabric to preserve modesty, geometric ruffles curled all around a sweet-but-still Yohji dress. With his radically personal glossary, it’s easy to forget that Yamamoto is first and foremost an extremely deliberate designer. Continuing to explore his definition of seduction, he delivered a surgically precise charge. Everything from clubby sportswear to mannish formalwear and everything in between, described similarly nonchalant visions of femininity.