Z Zegna Menswear Spring Summer 2013 Milan

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Z Zegna Menswear Spring Summer 2013 Milan

In the program notes for the Z Zegna collection the first line reads “Summer for the Z Zegna man is a time to leave aside the rigidity of working life and let a playful, carefree and at time nostalgic spirit emerge.” Conceivably designer Paul Surridge was referring to replacing a classic business suit with one with short sleeves, as in the case of the first exit, or using volume as a reaction to rigidity on boxy jackets. But at no point did this collection feel playful or carefree. Not in the prominently blue, taupe and black color palette nor in the classic cut of the trousers or the big pocketed anoraks.

It did however have a 1960s futuristic vibe to it. The iridescent suits that opened the show and a group of “optical illusion” outfits crafted out of a jacquard all looked like they could have stepped out of the pages of a vintage Gentlemen's Quarterly magazine. These pieces created an interesting dissonance when mixed among the rest of this minimalist collection.

Purportedly the Z Zegna line is designed for the Zegna brand’s younger customer.  But this collection felt out of synch with modern menswear. Maybe it looked too far back or too far in the future to find the right balance for what will work for the here and now.

-Jessica Michault