The shows are a whirlwind of catwalks, presentations, clothes, details, big trends, small trends, big news, little news; the point is: some things can get missed. So here’s an edit of some of the highlights you might have missed. Because sometimes, it’s hard to keep up.
Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Fall Winter 2017 Fashion Show in Paris
Back to basics! Needless to say that Hermès menswear designer, Véronique Nichanian excels at such a performance. The good thing about Hermès’ menswear shows is that they feel always safe: from one season to another, Nichanian offers a covetable range of timeless statement pieces that usually sell like hot cakes. Tapping into the streetwear trend, Hermès also unveiled a range of 90’s flavored belt pouches, in an attempt to infuse the men's silhouette with more freedom and an utilitarian yet urban flair. "It allows you to keep your hands in your pockets and store your phone and wallet away, to feel light," explained the designer backstage. Freedom is everything.
Emotional and sensitive, Yamamoto's take on elegant yet edgy menswear is always one of the Paris men's show highlights. By offering an eclectic male wardrobe that speaks to all generations, the Japanese designer always manages to attract a diverse following of fashion aficionados who admire his real and authentic transgenerational designs. This season again saw Yamamoto offer what he does best: signature prints – an arty camouflage pattern stood out particularly – soft yet edgy cuts and nonchalant drapes. To die for.
Officine Generale Fall Winter 2017 Menswear Collection in Paris
Pigalle's Very Own Atelier
It's a major step forward for everybody's darling, Pigalle founder and Creative Director Stéphane Ashpoole. On the occasion of this season's Fall/Winter 2017 menswear collection, Ashpoole opened his very own Paris-based design atelier, more than seven years after founding his street-wear brand Pigalle that has now evolved into a fully-fledged ready-to-wear men's collection. This season again, the self-taught menswear designer has been translating the vibes and streets of Pigalle into pastel-hued, streetwear infused men's ready-to-wear that came with a surprisingly new artisanal twist. Way to go.
In a statement released by Pierre Mahéo, Officine Générale's Creative Director, the designer expressed his natural fascination with all things French and how he translated this influence into covetable designs. "I unconsciously transpose what surrounds me, and what has inspired me since childhood. This «French style» seems to exist," he explained. Willing to express both modernity and a certain edge, Mahéo's silhouettes included elegant outfits with charmingly nonchalant detailing, such as a collar slightly unbuttoned, a scarf obediently knotted, a sweater under a shirt, a wrinkled side, a little piece of T-shirt coming out, a belt without a buckle and a white jean in the middle of the winter – in other words, the very best of the infamous French je ne sais quoi.
Julien David Fashion Show Menswear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in Paris
Offering a bold and aggressive take on utilitarian wear, Yosuke Aizawa's White Mountaineering opted for a fresh take on functional and utilitarian outerwear looks and chunky knits that challenged regular tailoring. Highlights included statement outdoor coats, jackets and pants variations in a dark color palette, mostly shades of black and grey. Voluminous looks and adorned with sporty details also made for true eye-catchers.
With aviation and military in mind, Julien David presented a serene collection that took these two themes and discreetly worked them out. It felt like that, anyway, even though there were the additions of harnesses and little caps. But take a closer look and it was the aeroplane buttons that were an especially nice detail.
Thom Browne Menswear Fall Winter 2017 Fashion Show in Paris
Are you sitting comfortably? Then Thom Brown will begin. The designer puts on a show. This season that saw something akin to the seven ages of man play out via the three ages of the suit, as the models took to the catwalk at a slow pace – due to the trotter-like shoe-boots on their feet – in skin-tight tweed, smothered in buttons. This was the beginning. Then came the suit pattern, sliced up and put upon the body as though it was starting to assemble. It was coming alive. Then it did: in the more wearable section (still not entirely, though, but Brown’s shows are never really about that) of the collection. And then, three by three, out they came again to illustrate the evolution.
Fashion has been dominated by several topics of late: see-now-buy-now (though starting to dwindle, if we’re honest), and the co-ed shows – aka showing menswear and womenswear together. We’ve seen lots over London and Milan, some specifically so, some just because. Paul Smith is among the bigger and more significant names to have made the decision. It makes complete sense – his womenswear very much takes on a menswear sensibility and his is a brand aesthetic that has an umbrella approach. This show was fun, jubilant – though when is a Paul Smith show not? But what was poignant here is that to open the show, he sent out a male and female model: equals. And in the current climate that is riddled with boy-girl divide – still - this felt right and more significant than just the signal of a show opening.
Etudes Studio Fall Winter 2017 Menswear Collection in Paris
Huge enveloping scarves and seriously chunky knits of blooms: boy did we want to pluck this collection straight from the catwalk and wear it right now (it’s got down to minus four in Paris this week). With enough sultry attitude and don’t-give-a-damn style, there was a lot to like – a lot ! – in this collection. Compile that shopping list now, starting with the floral knits.
A new concept from the functional heritage stalwart comes Mackintosh 0001 from Kiko Kostadinov: a new premium line, the collection consists of 10 ready-to-wear unisex looks, the idea being that each season is a new chapter, the pieces therefore numbered. The Arte Povera movement of the Sixties provided the inspiration with rubber, a key component of the Mackintosh brand, of course being key. Shapes reworked, the classic Mac came as a reversible version and there was also a police biker raincoat for a more contemporary oversized spin.
The Mackintosh 0001 Fall/Winter 2017 menswear collection