3.1 Phillip Lim Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
“It is about the journey itself, not the goal,” explains Philip Lim backstage after his autumn-winter 2013/14 show. And indeed, one can tell that the designer is focusing a lot on the process of creating his menswear line, as the beauty of his new collection is deeply rooted in technical knowledge and subtle detailing.
For today's show at Palais de Tokyo, Lim took his audience through a nomadic discovery of functional, yet sophisticated clothing. The precise cuts and intense work on texture made the garments highly desirable. Black and white motocross jackets were embroidered, riding pants showed off different textures of wool, and military jackets were made of three layers of dusty black and khaki stripes, while zippers adorned the sleeves of nappa pullovers.
The explorative journey being underlined by a remixed version of Jefferson Airplane's “White Rabbit” as the shows soundtrack, one could truly imagine that the models where chasing rabbits, when they wandered on the runway, sporting a field jacket in camouflage-looking patchwork with a nubuk backpack and sometimes even feeling the magic of the journey when trompe-l’oeil clothing came along, such as a black leather top that was embossed like a cable sweater.
“I was in Tokyo once and I picked up a vintage Harley Davidson, a Black Shadow, and went on a trip. I wanted to express this type of journey through my collection. It was about the freedom and the confidence to be who you are. The title of the collection is “Sonomama” – it means “as you are” in Japanese. You always come back to who you are or who you should be. It's like exploring yourself, it's a life circle,” explains Lim and thereby ends on a confident note. But what is most admirable – other than the humanistic attitude towards life – is that Phillip Lim makes complicated silhouettes look easy.
- Elisabeta Tudor