3.1 Phillip Lim Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris
The crispness of shirting material felt refreshing in the early morning heat. White flags hung from their poles, drawing the eyes to the far end of the runway, giving the Galerie de Minéralogie pomp and circumstance. 3.1 Phillip Lim isn't usually about tilling new grounds but Lim is certainly the one who leaves no detail unturned, particularly when revisiting Americana. Today, inspired no doubt on its prepster brigade, was today as solid — and dare we predict, successful — as ever.
After all these years toiling away at staples, Lim has struck a golden standard for his work, defining the "athleisure" down to a T. This iteration saw him formalize windbreakers and dress down seafaring regalia. The key here is not so much about over-narrating as it is about taking a slightly askew perspective on staples. What charmed the most was no doubt the attention paid to proportions. Point in case, a seam that curved down from the ribcage, softly slimming a jacket without an unseemly dart. Elsewhere, shirts took on wider proportions, replacing a jacket, notched at the clavicle. Trousers slouched just enough to highlight a sense of ease, not neglect.
More than ever, the thinning boundaries between leisure and work wardrobes could be seen at play here, and the result was fresh, clean, and perhaps, if those silky pajama suits and doodled botanical prints were to be believed, not so straight-laced. Even the nubs of rope, dangling from rucksack straps and boat shoes didn't feel too outrageous. There were some outliers, chiefly the slick leather moto jacket that appeared mid-way in the show. But rather than spoiling the mood, they served to reinforce the idea that Lim's customer, as grown-up as he seems, still sometimes reaches for the trappings of his youth.