We love a culotte. And a Chola! But it has to be said, amongst this collection reportedly part inspired by Mexican and Japanese gangs, we saw nothing that reminded us of our favourite lip-lined Hispanic ladeez. Never mind, Phillip Lim kept our eyes occupied with a front-pleated trouser that came in thirteen different variations.
3.1 Phillip Lim, named so because Lim and his business partner Wen Zhou were both thirty-one years old when they met, is a business that’s quickly expanding. Creative director of five lines (womens, resort, holiday, mens and kids not to mention the accesories) Lim’s approach is to make wearable modern design at doable prices.
No stranger to dresses or trousers that include inventive paneling, Lim’s show opened with brandy coloured lambskin trousers with a fold across the vertical crease. Next came a sapphire jumpsuit with a pleat that ran down the front; this front fold was a theme throughout the show. Otherwise wool knit trousers tapered at the ankle appeared which is a trend also seen during men’s fashion week.
Liquid patent leather is a material that’s peeked through in variations on the catwalks (see Proenza Schouler) and the sleeveless ‘rain dress’ by Lim worked well with the soft cardi-coat in oatmeal. Lim continued to mix textures and baseball sleeves on tops and jackets were beaded or leather while the body was shearling or a neoprene silk mix.
Lim is a designer who puts a lot of research into new fabrics that multi-task, an area that’s at the frontier of fashion.
Soundtrack: Austra, Beat & The Pulse