Designer Phillip Lim was in a reflective mood this season. He explained in his show notes that he wanted to pull apart and “re-address the systems and structures that we build along the way.” And in doing so, his goal was to “re-invent” clothing archetypes.
That’s no small feat and Lim did a pretty fine job of reworking wardrobe staples to give them a new dynamism. Asymmetrical skirts that trailed long down one side had a directional appeal. The use of ring belts to hoist, cinch or harness dresses to the waist, tops to the chest or sleeves to the body of a coat gave the designs a sense of tension. While the mix of floral and plaids on the same garment had a dissonant beauty about them.
But truth be told, it was Lim’s much beloved outerwear that will once again serve him well when it comes time to take orders. His designer update on a classic army flight jacket, as well as the matching pants seen earlier in the show, were both winners. As were his olive green parka and fur-trimmed navy blue nylon coat.
It’s always fun to try something different and explore the idea of a bit of reinvention. But as the saying goes, "If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”