It’s probably a good thing that Phillip Lim is about to open a new flagship store in New York. With this strong spring/summer 2015 collection, the designer is going to need another place for new and faithful fans of the brand to congregate.
In the show notes, Lim kept the explanations to a minimum, saying simply that, “it explores the sensual intimacy of bedroom interiors,” and that it played on dualities. But the real take away was the accompanying quote from the eternally cool Leonard Cohen.
“Forget your perfect offering. There is a crack in everything. That’s how the light gets in.”
It was the cracks in this show, the absences, if you will, that made it such a success.
Starting with first look down the catwalk, a stiff, rippling hemmed tank top that left a sliver of skin exposed under the breast, this collection gave the body a central role to play in each design.
Then there were the lovely, semi-shear organza pants crafted in a caning motif. The bra tops that finished off with belt straps wrapping the bare waist, and some great undulating short skirts. Even the more traditional sleeveless jackets, or those contoured with lacing, also worked well within this revealing concept.
The “bedroom” aspect of the show was introduced via the treatment of Lim’s textiles. The quilting on a tank top echoed that of a mattress pad (in a good way). A satin wrap dress hinted at dressing gowns. And the designer’s chosen print brought to mind the wallpaper you might find in a lady’s boudoir.
This sporty yet sexy show was well thought out and showed a common thread of originality throughout. It clearly underlined why Lim continues to be so well liked by fashion lovers.