5 Looks from the Helmut Lang Show

With Shayne Oliver behind the creative force of Helmut Lang – and with the return of Helmut Lang to the NYFW calendar – stating that attendees were eager and excited would be somewhat of a euphemism. With most of the progressive designers moving to Paris, it was uplifting to see people still moved by a show on the schedule. The other notable hands on deck were Isabella Burley's, who was appointed as Helmut Lang’s first editor-in-residence to bring her editorial eye and vision to the legacy brand.


Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION

 

LOOK 47: Probably the most conservative of his pieces for the debut launch, and most definitely an unexpected color choice – although on-trend with what we’ve been seeing on the runway so far. The sweet pink pastel puffa coat with elongated sleeves and extra volume around the neck seemed like it was lifted straight out of a winter collection; but I guess if Oliver is truly designing with a New Yorker in mind then it’s quite possible this piece will aptly land in-stores by February when it's snowing and below zero.

LOOK 39: This electrifying blue ensemble could’ve gone down the classic route – but in good old Oliver fashion, he deconstructed conservative elements to make it more youthful and playful. Trousers became crotch-bearing rearless pants while the jacket came with a skimpy harness that mimicked the silhouette of a tie.

LOOK 35: The unstructured vibe in this look gave it a sporty-meets-comfort vibe with minimal stitching and a loosely fitting shape. The off-center waist band borrowed elements from this season’s popular off-the-shoulder top, but here Oliver took the trend down south playing with the styling of what looked like wrap-around underwear almost. The teeny tiny bra top was definitely more decoration than function, echoing a similar unstructured aesthetic. 

 


Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION

 

LOOK 14: Perhaps this was Oliver’s take on an evening piece for Helmut Lang, reconstructing a formal satin gown to be a hybrid skirt and strapless top combo. On closer inspection, it almost appeared as if a mini banded skirt was layered under the zip-through skirt – or is it a dress? All very confusing, but that’s part of the reason Oliver does what he does – creating an optical illusion of sorts. The matching choker also doubled as two thigh garters that looked like they were holding up sheer stockings but were, in fact, attached to the dress.

LOOK 1:  The opening look that set the stage for Shayne’s first collection. One part confusion and one part utter genius, his take on deconstruction meant things were not as they seem. Floaty trousers become voluminous when unstitched and left to flow like a skirt; and bra tops straddle the line between harnesses with drooping straps and criss-cross detailing. A strong outfit to open with even if at first the typical Helmut Lang customer is likely to be a little thrown off.

 

See all the looks of the Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2018 Collection

 

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