Fashion loves a mood. And at London Fashion Week it’s one that feels decidedly pretty. But of course, this is London and “pretty” to one person means something quite different to another. Here are five ways London is doing pretty for Spring/Summer 2017.
Simone Rocha Women Fashion Show Ready to Wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 in London
Simone Rocha has become synonymous with a gentle beauty when it comes to her designs – they’re sweet and ever so slightly innocent, but always have something a little more complicated or subversive at play. For Spring/Summer 2017, that came by way of macs that morphed into beautiful broderie anglaise, crochet, or macramé dresses, their sleeves and backs twisting this way and that so that at first you saw one garment, before quickly realising it wasn’t that one at all. It was deconstructed and clever, beautiful and serene – and compounded Rocha’s status as a darling on the London fashion scene.
Roberta Einer Women Fashion Show Ready to Wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 in London
An off-schedule name to take note of is Roberta Einer, a 2015 graduate of Westminster University whose gang you’re going to want to be a part of – such is the cool and credibility factor (both in the make and aesthetically) that comes with her world. Beads and embroidery on denim blousons, sassy crochet-slit skirts; the quality of her pieces is extraordinary for a young designer with no stray threads of glue-gunned hems to be found here. There’s verve, attitude, and personality – and though still only in her fashion infancy, the clothes already feel like they should inhabit their own store. But then all of the above is perhaps hardly surprising when you note that the Estonian designer did a stint at Balmain where she honed her craft: and let’s not forget that when it comes to the powers of conviction, Balmain has that in spades.
Charlotte Olympia Women Fashion Show Ready to Wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 in London
“Put on your dancing shoes, it’s show time the South American way!” Palm trees; girls in sequin bathing suits jiving around with bananas; a real-life Carmen Miranda and a Samba band: this is the norm in the glorious 1940s technicolour world of Charlotte Olympia, which came to life in spectacular fashion for Spring/Summer 2017. Her chorus line of tutti-frutti shoes and bags came on out and it really was pretty magical – if not a very clever way to show off accessories, though you couldn’t help but sometimes forget to look at them such was the delightful drama of the dancers, the music, the performance, the everything going on here. It was a top night out!
Mary Katrantzou Women Fashion Show Ready to Wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 in London
In what felt like one of her strongest collections to date, Katrantzou solidified her status as print queen and compounded the DNA she has so evolved over what is fast becoming nearly a decade in the fashion spotlight. This was about unearthing her classics – you could see them all here, and married together with her native Greece for the ancient artifact prints and Minoan-inspired silhouettes. It was in some ways a greatest hits, ideas revisited and renewed and executed with a sophistication that she has honed over the years to prove that London designers can exist beyond the student years. Yes, she can do prints, but she does so much more than that now and knows how to mediate them into an elegance and a finesse – something wearable and covetable that ticks the boxes for buyers and the press alike.
Christopher Kane Women Fashion Show Ready to Wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 in London
What can’t Christopher Kane turn his hand to? He somehow even managed to make crocs cool. He did that, he actually did. The designer celebrated ten years on the catwalk today (wow, fashion years go fast) and did so with, similarly to Katrantzou, what felt like a greatest hits collection that revisited and amplified his signatures, cemented his brilliant and eclectic sense of style, and adding the aforementioned if not slightly controversial footwear component into the equation. He bejewelled them and rendered them in croc print, even (croc crocs!), to make them hip and cool, so typically Kane and top of everyone’s footwear shopping list next season (whoever thought we’d see the day?). With a make-do-and-mend approach, he sent out a suitably stunning handbag collection adding rivets and shimmering rocks, all of which could be found on t-shirts and dresses too – even looped round necks, a granny chic sensibility with more than a hint of dress-up. There were lots of ideas here but the thing about Kane is he always manages to streamline them – and here he put forward plenty of star options for the season ahead. Crocs, jewels, slogan metalwork, the list goes on and on.