A Play on Sensuality and Streetwear

On the penultimate day of Fashion Week, the tension was palpable. Looking around Milan’s usually full streets and alleys, now completely deserted, one couldn’t help but wonder if the level of alarmism was to be listened to or if it was just mediatic paranoia. After all, both Giorgio Armani and Laura Biagiotti had declared they would be holding their shows via ‘closed doors’, streaming them online. 

Regardless of this, the day started at Drome where creative director Marianna Rosati delivered a collection that reflected upon how women's sensuality is perceived nowadays. “I was inspired by Les Erotiques du regard, a 1968 book by Marc Attali,” stated the designer backstage. The photobook, a rare essay in pictures that plays with concrete poetry and typography, is a frank meditation on the male gaze, examining the phenomenon while, at the same time, doing the classical male thing of gazing. Thus, after delving into research on this matter, Rosati explored the following questions: Where does the sensuality and femininity of a woman reside, especially when one doesn’t want to be judged? How can women feel empowered by their bodies? What existing taboos do we still have in terms of the language centred around sensuality and femininity? In order to answer these queries, she delivered a collection that played with minimalism, riffing with the concept of unravelling the body in a mysterious and playful way – starting from oversized jackets and coats with dropped shoulders layered over high waisted straight leg trousers or mini dresses with slits. Peaking from the skirt slits were lightly ribbed knitted tights and undergarments that gave away retro flavours. Creamy tones of nudes, whites, blacks, occasional dashes of powder blue and pops of gold characterized the palette. A very elegant collection that looked back on the past in order to deliver something modern, but still slightly bourgeoisie looking. 

As mentioned before, Laura Biagiotti was the second brand of the day who decided to hold her show behind closed doors. This season, creative director Lavinia Biagiotti was inspired by Voltaire’s Candid and the concept of 'cultivating our own gardens', both literally and metaphorically. Metaphorically as the designer intended it as “a rediscovery of beauty in cultivating, in nature and in human relationships and in everyday life, in fashion, in music and in all that which can be source of regeneration and happiness,” and literally as she presented a collection that played with floral prints, both embroidered and printed on multiple garments across the collection. Like at Drome, the silhouettes and fabrics were very feminine (the collection was full of slinky silks and satins), however, they were also contrasted by stronger shoulders on tailored coats and jackets. Lush autumnal garden tones were big in the collection as peony pinks, wine reds and forest greens characterised the palette. Last but not least, continuing the discourse on sustainability, the designer also declared that most of her ankle-length dresses and knits had been made out of recovered cashmere and were totally biodegradable. 

At Fila, creative directors Antonino Ingrasciotta and Josef Graesel were inspired by some of the world’s most renowned peak climbers – the heroes who scaled the world's tallest snowy peaks without oxygen and conquered them – Reinhold Messner, Ingemar Stenmark and the Mahre Brothers. This journey beginning in the environment has always been a bold challenge to human endurance, a heroic, if not slightly crazy, venture which necessitates of a lot of courage, tenacity and determination for it to have a positive outcome. However, instead of organizing a show, the duo presented their collection through an experiential presentation that merged technology and streetwear. Looking through the brand’s archives, the co-creative directors decided to look for details that would pay homage to these bold climbers and men who earned a place in sports history. First up was the homage to Messner, who scaled Everest wearing his iconic blue Fila Overalls, celebrated through graphics on jackets, sweatshirts and tops. The famous reinforced tailored, yellow and blue jacket that Ingemar Stenmark wore when he won the World Cup was then modernized by the duo into a new, urban, high-performance jacket. And last but not least, neoprene, waterproof and windproof nylon in navy, red, white and blue, featured heavily a play on Fila’s DNA. 

At Vièn, creative director Vincenzo Palazzo revealed backstage that he looked at multiple artistic references this season, starting from the Victorian period to the Viennese secession, passing through la La Dolce Vita and the socio/musical/cultural revolutions. The collection patched together traditional sartorial elements with streetwear icons, as precisely stitched seams, curled up dresses and ribbed jackets, as well as balloon sleeves on crisp cotton shirts and Prince of Wales checks merged, styled with high-top sneakers, bomber jackets, sweaters and caps. Trench coats were characterised by both classic neutral tones and tartan checks, a mix between a Scottish clan print and that of Masai Mara. Of note, this season, was the designer’s use of denim, patched up with more classic materials, such as crisp white poplin.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Hiroshi Fujiwara Designs Moncler's Latest Collection
By Rebecca Hitchon
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with...
By Rebecca Hitchon
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with globally influential streetwear designer and Japanese hip hop DJ Hiroshi Fujiwara."I wanted to create a new standard, delivering the message that Moncler loves the mountain, which is where the story...
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with globally influential streetwear designer and Japanese hip hop DJ Hiroshi Fujiwara."I wanted to create a new standard, delivering the message that Moncler loves the mountain, which is where the story started," said Fujiwara about the 7 Moncler Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara collection. This message is...
Kering Sets New Biodiversity Targets
By Alice Ierace
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new...
By Alice Ierace
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new targets in order to achieve a 'net positive' impact on biodiversity by 2025.Aligned with its long-term commitment to sustainability, the group’s new biodiversity strategy outlines steps to not only...
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new targets in order to achieve a 'net positive' impact on biodiversity by 2025.Aligned with its long-term commitment to sustainability, the group’s new biodiversity strategy outlines steps to not only minimize biodiversity loss across its global supply chains but also to support nature and create net...
ALIITA: A Sparkling Family Affair
By Elisa Carassai
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the...
By Elisa Carassai
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the Fendi's, the Ferragamo's and the Castiglioni's, are just a few of the renown names that come to mind when thinking of the fashion empires that keep it in the family. One of these is Aliita, the jewellery...
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the Fendi's, the Ferragamo's and the Castiglioni's, are just a few of the renown names that come to mind when thinking of the fashion empires that keep it in the family. One of these is Aliita, the jewellery brand established by Venezuelan-born and Milan-based designer Cynthia Vilchez Castiglioni with the...
Loewe Releases Divine-Inspired Collection
By Alice Ierace
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor...
By Alice Ierace
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor Divine. “[Divine] was absolutely out of the ordinary. He lived an intense life as a man, performer, character and as a body. For me, it is the embodiment of the principle of self-determination,” explained...
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor Divine. “[Divine] was absolutely out of the ordinary. He lived an intense life as a man, performer, character and as a body. For me, it is the embodiment of the principle of self-determination,” explained Jonathan Anderson, creative director of the house.The collection consists primarily of three t-shirts...
H&M Launches New CHIMI Collab
By Rebecca Hitchon
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear...
By Rebecca Hitchon
By Rebecca Hitchon
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear collection. The CHIMI x H&M collection, which became exclusively available on the H&M website earlier this month, marks CHIMI’s first venture into menswear, after gaining success among the...
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear collection. The CHIMI x H&M collection, which became exclusively available on the H&M website earlier this month, marks CHIMI’s first venture into menswear, after gaining success among the Insta-generation for their “inclusive, fun, progressive” sunglasses designs, in the words of Creative Director...
MQBMBQ Celebrates Black Queerness in all its Different Forms
By Sasha Regazzoni
The new three-week long fundraising project denounces white queer racism and black queer...
By Sasha Regazzoni
The new three-week long fundraising project denounces white queer racism and black queer antagonism through photography, literature and film.  Jamaican-born creative Jordan Anderson has long felt concern for the worryingly stagnant direction of the fashion and arts industries and the lack of...
The new three-week long fundraising project denounces white queer racism and black queer antagonism through photography, literature and film.  Jamaican-born creative Jordan Anderson has long felt concern for the worryingly stagnant direction of the fashion and arts industries and the lack of black LGBTQ+ representation within them, hence deciding to take matters into his own hands. “My Queer...
Y/PROJECT's Eclectic Versatility
By Alice Ierace
If there is one thing 2020 has taught us so far is that the...
By Alice Ierace
If there is one thing 2020 has taught us so far is that the show must go on. Even within the fashion industry, months of lockdown and uncertainty haven’t stopped designers and creatives alike to share their work and talent with the world. That's exactly...
If there is one thing 2020 has taught us so far is that the show must go on. Even within the fashion industry, months of lockdown and uncertainty haven’t stopped designers and creatives alike to share their work and talent with the world. That's exactly why, on a sunny June afternoon, Glenn Martens gave me a personal preview of his latest SS21 collection...
New Coalition To Tackle Racism and Discrimination In The Fashion Industry
By Rebecca Hitchon
A coalition of more than 400 Black editors, stylists, models and executives is set to address...
By Rebecca Hitchon
A coalition of more than 400 Black editors, stylists, models and executives is set to address systematic racism and discrimination within the fashion and beauty industries when it launches next month.Co-founded by Teen Vogue Editor-In-Chief Lindsay Peoples Wagner and publicist Sandrine Charles,...
A coalition of more than 400 Black editors, stylists, models and executives is set to address systematic racism and discrimination within the fashion and beauty industries when it launches next month.Co-founded by Teen Vogue Editor-In-Chief Lindsay Peoples Wagner and publicist Sandrine Charles, the Black in Fashion Coalition wants to concentrate industry efforts to fight racism through...