A sustainable drink for a sustainable fashion

Is Italian fashion going towards a more ethical direction?

It does sound like a really fancy excuse for a really fancy cocktail party. But A sustainable drink for a sustainable fashion has all the premises to result in something unusually different, perhaps quite pragmatic and long-lasting – which in fashion usually anticipates the happening of something worth paying attention to. The Chamber of Italian Fashion (CNMI) will indeed present the outcome of years of research in a document shared with the other Fashion Weeks: “Guidelines on the eco-toxicological requirements for clothing, leather goods, footwear, and accessories” (literal translation). While waiting for the document to be released to the public, we have talked with Greenpeace and a few Italian brands particularly sensitive to the subject about their past experiences and present expectations.

 

 

“Recently we had a really open, and we hope constructive, discussion with the CNMI. Though we are not aware of the details of the document, as for today we think that the majority of Italian luxury brands, except for Valentino, have not stepped towards the right direction yet. But we do expect that with this document there will finally be a stronger consciousness towards the elimination of toxicological substances. This must be paired with a human approach based on transparency and respect towards the environment and the health of the consumers.” According to Greenpeace, whose Detox campaign has been consistent in Italy since 2011, the Italian Fashion System is in need of a more ambitious plan to protect the environment: from a correct management of hydro assets to energy efficient technologies, but mostly to the regulation of all the toxicological substances used to produce clothes and accessories. Luckily for us, the 15% of global fashion companies have now taken measures for a complete elimination of the toxic chemical yield in their production chains. “Among them there are Fast Fashion stores (Zara, H&M); luxury Maisons (Burberry, Valentino); sportswear brands (Puma, adidas); discount companies (Lidl, Penny); and tons of Italian textile businesses like the Miroglio Group, Besani, Tessitura Attilio Imperiali, and Ditta Giovanni Lanfranchi. Moreover, just in the past weeks, twenty brands of the Prato Textile District, who supply services to some of the most important Italian fashion brands such as Gucci, Prada, Valentino, and Armani, have signed our Detox campaign undertaking a serious commitment to their consumers.”

 

 

Colori intensi, fiori ricchi di colore: ecco cosa ha ispirato la #capsule #FioriDiBarbieri!

A photo posted by Elena Mirò (@elena_miro) on Feb 26, 2016 at 9:01am PST

 

As one of the few Italian businesses successfully promoted by Greenpeace, the Miroglio Group has recently launched a collaboration with the plus-size brand Elena Mirò. This capsule collection of floral digital prints has been produced with a water-saving technique that, compared to the traditional one, saves up to the 50% in water. “In line with our plan with Greenpeace, we are proceeding towards a complete elimination of the chemical substances” – revealed Mauro Davico, Communication and PR Director for the Miroglio fashion department – “We are at a really good point right now and we have been receiving more and more interest from the media.”

 

 

Flavia La Rocca is one of the two ambassadors of the Prato Textile District who, along with Lee Wood, is currently showing at Milan Fashion Week. At the Vogue Fashion Hub she presented a collection made completely out of sustainable materials: interchangeable and functional garments for a total of ten looks. “From the perspective of my brand – which has chosen to produce sustainable fashion since 2013 – the simple aiming for a 100% sustainability requires a major commitment. There are a lot of challenges: from the research to the creative process, right to the production and the final communication to the client.” Flavia started to be involved with the Prato District since the establishment of her brand and, for the F/W 2016-2017 season, she decided to produce a capsule collection in collaboration with the local brand Cardato Recycled Made in Prato. “It’s a really important collaboration,” she states, “that for me meant reducing the chain to the very minimum by working side by side with the producers, learning a lot more about the production process in order to be able to demonstrate the versatility of the textile. The regenerated wool has been hand-woven in the District for more than a century and I find it very fascinating that, while still being a historical activity, the Cardato Recycled is today able to offer such a contemporary, versatile, and sustainable product.”

 

 

Creative Director of Genny since 2013, Sara Cavazza Facchini has made her creative approach to fashion all about human values. In September 2015 she joined the Fashion 4 Development gala in New York City, showing to 350 first ladies her F/W 2015/16 collection. Since the collaboration with the international platform, launched by Evie Evangelou in 2011, Genny’s take on sustainability evolved into the decision to attach a value label to all of its clothes. The value label states the sustainable quality of all the Made in Italy garments, as well as describing its social responsibility towards employees and the low environmental impact of its products. “What I have personally noticed is that recently our customers are deeply interested in all that revolves around the product they are buying: from where it comes from to what Made in Italy practically means. I’ll admit that working in a sustainable way does, in fact, require more effort than usual, design-wise and business-wise, but I firmly believe that it’s all worth it. The success of a brand cannot simply detach from its ability to combine aesthetic and ethic anymore. Before deciding to buy a fabric, for example, I request from our suppliers (most of whom have already signed the Greenpeace Detox campaign) all the info on its production process and then, if I find something odd, I just change my mind and replace it. At the end of the day, a garment must give value to the human being who decides to wear it.”

 

 

With a similar point of view, Stella Jean, who also joined Fashion 4 Development in 2014, gave her unique contribution for a more ethical Italian fashion since the starting of her mind-blowing design career. Her commitment to an aesthetic that promotes social, cultural, and ethical growth has influenced tons of emerging brands to explore the same possibilities. “Considering the enormous power that it wields, fashion cannot abstain itself from informing and educating on sustainability,” she told us. “A sustainability that expresses itself even before the textiles, through the hard-working hands and the dignity of the people who produce them.”

 

 

While Greenpeace rightfully underlines the need to catch up with the other Fashion Capitals, it looks and sounds like something more practical is actually happening in Milan. The industry is unavoidably changing its standard procedures alongside its design principles and communication strategies. What the future holds is, of course, impossible to predict. What we do know is that the result of these changes was, still is, and probably always will be a bottom-up process in Italy. Whether we like it or not, it all starts with us as consumers and our willingness to keep ourselves updated and well-informed. After all, we must know what we are wearing in order to be consciously demanding.

 

DISCOVER THE LATEST IN NOWMAGAZINE HERE.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Cuoio di Toscana Launches Campaign Against Domestic Violence
By Alice Ierace
Italian sole-leather brand Cuoio di Toscana, alongside many companies and institutions of fashion...
By Alice Ierace
Italian sole-leather brand Cuoio di Toscana, alongside many companies and institutions of fashion and luxury leather goods, shared their the commitment to defend women. “Violence against women does not go into quarantine: at the expense of the current moment of emergency, the numbers affecting...
Italian sole-leather brand Cuoio di Toscana, alongside many companies and institutions of fashion and luxury leather goods, shared their the commitment to defend women. “Violence against women does not go into quarantine: at the expense of the current moment of emergency, the numbers affecting this social injury show no sign of diminishing and, if we consider the case of domestic violence in...
Burberry Reports Significant Revenue Loss
By Rebecca Hitchon
Luxury fashion house Burberry has released its preliminary results for the past financial year...
By Rebecca Hitchon
Luxury fashion house Burberry has released its preliminary results for the past financial year ending 28th March, revealing the impact of COVID-19 on the business.Although the report discusses positive responses to its SS20 and AW20 collections and sales higher than expected earlier in the...
Luxury fashion house Burberry has released its preliminary results for the past financial year ending 28th March, revealing the impact of COVID-19 on the business.Although the report discusses positive responses to its SS20 and AW20 collections and sales higher than expected earlier in the year, the outbreak of COVID-19 in late January negatively affected the financial year. Store closures,...
Meryll Rogge’s Last Days of Disco
By Elisa Carassai
New York has always been a source of inspiration for...
By Elisa Carassai
New York has always been a source of inspiration for creatives. From writers, to artists, poets and designers, the city that never sleeps always seems to provide the right canvas for the creation of the most exciting ventures.   One of these...
New York has always been a source of inspiration for creatives. From writers, to artists, poets and designers, the city that never sleeps always seems to provide the right canvas for the creation of the most exciting ventures.   One of these creatives is 35-year-old Meryll Rogge. A former student of Walter Van Beirendock at Antwerp’s Academy...
Hindsight: Yale Photography On Sexuality and Mundanity
By Sasha Regazzoni
“When you think of your insides, do you imagine a river or...
By Sasha Regazzoni
“When you think of your insides, do you imagine a river or a volcano or … ? What is pleasure without climax? Can there be art without ego?”   In the opening essay of ‘Hindsight’, Yale School of Art’s 2020 MFA Photography graduate show which...
“When you think of your insides, do you imagine a river or a volcano or … ? What is pleasure without climax? Can there be art without ego?”   In the opening essay of ‘Hindsight’, Yale School of Art’s 2020 MFA Photography graduate show which launched last week, writer and visual artist Carmen Winant poses a series of “Questions for...
Neorealist Beauty Meets Italian Craftsmanship with 'Il Traffico'
By Amanda Ballerini
In our newly-minted column on independent brands, our favourite 'Instagram Scouter' Amanda...
By Amanda Ballerini
In our newly-minted column on independent brands, our favourite 'Instagram Scouter' Amanda Ballerini talks shoes, cinema and what they represent and eventually become, with independent brand Il Traffico's designer Marco Antonio Marra.I first discovered Marco Antonio Marra's work some months ago...
In our newly-minted column on independent brands, our favourite 'Instagram Scouter' Amanda Ballerini talks shoes, cinema and what they represent and eventually become, with independent brand Il Traffico's designer Marco Antonio Marra.I first discovered Marco Antonio Marra's work some months ago via Instagram. At the time, his page called' Il Traffico' was a project in development, physical...
Levi’s Celebrates 501 Day
By Alice Ierace
Levi’s, the brand behind the iconic blue denim, has been quite active on Instagram. Over the last...
By Alice Ierace
By Alice Ierace
Levi’s, the brand behind the iconic blue denim, has been quite active on Instagram. Over the last few weeks, music and denim fans alike have been tuning in and rocking out to the brand’s 5:01 Live series on Instagram for live-streamed concerts, panel talks and customization sessions. Today, they...
Levi’s, the brand behind the iconic blue denim, has been quite active on Instagram. Over the last few weeks, music and denim fans alike have been tuning in and rocking out to the brand’s 5:01 Live series on Instagram for live-streamed concerts, panel talks and customization sessions. Today, they celebrate the birthday of their iconic 501 blue jean with live performances from around Europe and...
Pyer Moss Discloses Plans for a Drive-In Event for NYFW
By Elisa Carassai
While the future of the fashion show is still uncertain, it seems that, as of late, designers are...
By Elisa Carassai
While the future of the fashion show is still uncertain, it seems that, as of late, designers are trying to find ways of engaging with their audience in the most creative ways.One of these is American designer Kerby Jean Raymond of Pyer Moss, who just announced he would be presenting his film...
While the future of the fashion show is still uncertain, it seems that, as of late, designers are trying to find ways of engaging with their audience in the most creative ways.One of these is American designer Kerby Jean Raymond of Pyer Moss, who just announced he would be presenting his film ‘American Also,’ a feature film documenting the two years leading up to the boundary-pushing Pyer Moss...
NYNNE’s Nordic Heritage
By Alice Ierace
“I have always been a creative soul since I was little, in...
By Alice Ierace
By Alice Ierace
“I have always been a creative soul since I was little, in many different aspects, drawing, sewing and dancing. I have always been interested in design being a way of free expression. Fashion is a language; it reveals a lot about you as a person and how...
“I have always been a creative soul since I was little, in many different aspects, drawing, sewing and dancing. I have always been interested in design being a way of free expression. Fashion is a language; it reveals a lot about you as a person and how you want to express yourself,” tells us Nynne Kunde, founder of her eponymous brand...