A dream as reality – here’s, in essence, what Lanvin’s show was all about. For the last day of Paris Fashion Week, Creative Director Bruno Sialelli decided to explore the notion of reverie, of memories real and make-believe, of fantastical characters and invented narratives. A dialogue between two worlds, intertwined with a playful take on a genderless collection.
Showcased at Palais Idéal, an extraordinary example of sublime architecture created by Ferdinand Cheval, the collection shows defined French details: a mixture of scarves, blouses, soft silhouettes – all blended together in a palette of pastel neutrals. With a subtle cinema-inspired atmosphere, the looks have been carefully assembled with gloves, turban hats and sunglasses. A blend of silk, wool, cotton, cashmere and leather offer a luxury quality and feel.
Entirely designed during the lockdown and inspired by fleeting cinema images and glimpses of editorial shootings, Lanvin’s Spring/Summer 21 collection sells a fashion fantasy hard to resist – a fantasy that invites you into an imaginary world, an escape from reality and a subconscious desire for adventure.
“This collection was about the spring we didn’t have, the spring we had to watch through our windows,” stated Palomo in the video presenting his Spring Summer 2021 collection.
Re-using deadstock leftover fabric from his factories, Palomo looked back at his whole archive of prints and patterns and discovered that in fact, it was full of wonders.
“Flowers are sexual organs and I like talking about sex and sexuality, and now is a good time to connect to nature,” said the designer.
Case of point, the Spanish designer was inspired by the Sounds of Nature, ‘everything that makes a sound when everything else is in silence,’ re-creating what could’ve been a Botticellian daydream. Feathers peeked from sleeves and collar of a cotton black checked jacket cinched at the waist, while huge pink silk taffeta trousers were paired with a poof-sleeved turtleneck shirt embroidered with sequins. There were flowers everywhere.
Since his arrival at Dior two years ago, British designer Kim Jones has been taking us on a journey from Tokyo to the tropics. Now, for the Maison’s Spring/Summer 21 collection, its Artistic Director collaborated with the Ghana-born, Vienna-trained artist Amoako Boafo – making us wish we were under the African sun.
Through an intimate, all-encompassing and honest cultural conversation, Dior’s latest collection is a celebration of identity, of the power of creativity and of art’s ability to transport. “Amoako Boafo’s celebrated Black Diaspora portraits are explorations of his own identity and perceptions of Blackness – specifically Black masculinity. Already expressive of cultural fusion, here those artworks are transposed – literally and metaphorically – onto garments expressive of the techniques and histories of haute couture,” read the show notes.
For that, each piece of the collection forms a sort of dialogue where Boafo’s artworks aren’t just an inspiration but play an essential role. Colours are vivid, fluo yellow saturates moiré, alongside blue, coral and green. Prints are drawn from the graphic patterns that characterize his work. We find three-dimensionality within the collection, where surfaces are intricately realized, printed and layered. Embroideries, knitwear and intarsia literally translate specific works by Amoako Boafo to the wearer’s body. Silhouettes are narrow, streamlined, sportswear-influenced yet with the perfect tailoring characteristic of a Couture house.
The collection isn’t just about clothes, it shows a profound relationship between two artists and their shared love for Africa. Something that perfectly blends in with Dior’s curiosity in discovering what truly shapes us.
How to present clothes this season? This digital fashion week designers have gone all-in either testing out new technologies or simply telling the stories behind their collections, producing content rather than showcasing clothing.
Thom Browne is a designer who loves a little performance, and this season it was rather more about content and inspiration than the clothing. The designer presented a film directed and starring Moses Sumney, featuring the singer singing the Olympic hymn wearing a sarong-style white sequined skirt – the only item Browne will be previewing this fashion week. A black and white masterpiece, the film captures a monumental moment of transport and beauty.
Browne has stated that
the rest of the collection will be unveiled this coming fall.
Ludovic De Saint Sernin
Saltiness on the skin, wind in the hair and the sun reflecting on the waves of the sea. These images set the scene to "Do you love me?", the film Ludovic de Saint Sernin presented today on the last day of Paris Digital Fashion Week.
The film tells the story of the eponymous romance born at the seaside – narrating the meeting of two boys during a midsummer day, in between the waves, on the beach. Recalling the original Call Me By Your Name Story, by Andre Aciman – the boys court each other through a game of looks, gestures and light touches. A delicate romance which represents the DNA of Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
While the short film anticipates the main spring-summer collection, which will be unveiled later on, it also features the brand’s new line of costumes which were unveiled three weeks ago via social media. The costumes were handcrafted in Paris and designed to last beyond just one summer. The designer also pledged to donate 10% of the profits of our swimwear sales will go to support Le Refuge as well as an additional 10% to G.L.I.T.S, a grassroots organization dedicated to supporting the LGBTQIA+ community on a global scale.
Much like Lanvin, this season Lemaire opted for a rather genderless Spring/Summer 21 collection. In fact, both sides explore the same wide cuts and soft silhouettes mixed in a colour palette that brings us on a journey through deep reds, olive greens, dark blues and classic neutrals.
The four-minute video reminds us of the beauty of sitting front row – admiring the clothes from afar, their silhouettes, layering and shapes. A somewhat nostalgic but classic presentation that perfectly ends this first-ever digital Paris Fashion Week.