Acne Studios Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
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The prim and proper mid-century soda fountain attendants, clad in Acne Studio uniforms complete with pristine caps, and who proffered giant paper cups of cucumber-mint ice water (or champagne and ice cubes "piscines" if one was so inclined) and fun fair foods stood in stark contrast with the run down space and moody skater boys of the summer collection.

Inspired by the "confident nothing of the skateboarder", the brand's Jonny Johansson conceived a collection that was more than ever inspired by his nearest and dearest. "I want my design to feel honest, something that I would wear and my sons too. I draw inspiration from my life so that I can relate," he explained as the models filed backstage, their slim forms at ease in the "one size up" play on proportions of the summer. But don't call it oversize, he remarks, because apart from knits - today's oversized tunic length sweaters are sure to be a hit-, he's not into that.

Rife with the codes of traditional casual, the coach jacket, wide leg shorts or oversize sweaters exemplified his creed of reality, albeit given a luxe Acne update in alcantara, leather or springy cotton knit. It felt very much in synch with current tropes on the runways, and "this is my attempt at being contemporary," Johansson added. "We're making things that, in the future, will appear relevant to our time."

As a whole, this collection served as a reminder of Acne's streetwear roots, unadulterated by either the push towards the radically new, or the pull towards the nostalgic and upmarket. Rather, it's an attempt at transcribing the essential understatement that silhouettes need to be built upon, a juxtaposition of casualness and confidence. Could this perhaps feel boring? Johansson grins. Although his curiosity is insatiable, and his inspiration needs the inspirational fodder of experimental designs he expresses admiration for, you get the feeling that sometimes, being bored is the best springboard to launch from.

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