"I had this idea of reducing volumes, so I started to cinch these oversized coats with rope," wrote Acne Studio's Jonny Johansson in his show notes. The glass box on the ground floor of the Centre Pompidou didn't leave any mystery on the proceedings within, just as his body conscious cuts and occasional forays in sheer left none on the bodies under his fall '15 collection.
With Johansson, you can always find a spanner in the works to keep things interesting. After working in volume for his outerwear, he worked on their reduction. Not through scaling down though. Visible darts were introduced, bound in ropes, pulling the shapes inwards, closer to the body. Coats treated like this veered into the sculptural. "Not enough," he was heard telling a French editor. Utility was broached as pockets were applied as a post scriptum, sitting boldly on the upper thigh, adding some storage space to bandage tight trousers. Highlighted in this way, they reinforced the composed nature of his wool arrangements ― they are so deliberate, the word patchwork feels too mundane ― that linked in their harmony to the works of photographer Vivianne Sassen, all about the harmony of people in their contextual environment, who he referenced.
The impression that remained was the body consciousness. Intellectually approached, it became an awareness of the space around the body, and prosaically left those coats in the mind.