Acne Studios Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2016 Paris
Jonny Johansson riffed on personal expression for his Spring collection, using musicians as the focal lens to magnify and project the attitude that epitomizes his inspiration. Offering mannish tailored jackets worn as dresses, irregular cobweb knitwear, and well-executed fitted straight trousers, he keyed in details like Plexiglas guitars, Nylon straps, CD print circles, and sound wave lines.
Looking like DIY assemblies at times, these clothes went from graphic bandeau shorts that were as abbreviated as belts to dresses with a faux-sweetheart neckline formed by straps.
The stand-out pieces were no doubt the boxy jackets; the velvet column dresses with their unzipped backs; and the knits, poked with holes as if they'd seen a few tours. Those hummed along solidly despite the distracting flashes of neon brights from the light spectrum.
Sock boots and electric guitar handle glasses were a catchy footnote, for an overall score that isn't an anthem, but will still reach the charts. But above all, it was the androgynous refusal of gender normation that echoed strongest, conforming to a social shift as seismic as the arrival of the CD had been.