Adam Kimmel Menswear Fall Winter 2012 Paris

For the upcoming winter, Adam Kimmel encourages a very masculine design, rather than to follow the omnipresent androgynous look that has took over the runway for the past two seasons, weather in men or womenswear.

This said, Kimmel never deviated from his classical path and proved once again that his very manly approach of menswear still works on the runway and is not yet to be forgotten. The designer has maintained the soul of his clean-cut outfits so far and is therefore contributing to a flawless and modern menswear wardrobe.

This season, Kimmel narrated a story around the 40s aviator look within a serene movie-like setting that included a crashed jet plane on the runway, playing with images coming straight from the US Air Force scenery and Nevada's controversial Area 51 military base. You'd find classical belt suspenders with navy blue pants over light grey working shirts as well as three-tone colored teddy jackets, a few sophisticated donkey jackets and shimmery dark blue trenchcoats and evening suits.

A few critics would accuse the designer of choosing a safe – meaning boring – path by opting for traditional menswear design, but who else other than Kimmel could still seduce with grey-mélange double-breasted tuxedos and suit pants? We wonder if any other designer would be able to interpret classical cuts in such a subtle way and at the same time impress with a twisted, contemporary mise-en-scène. The conclusion is easy: Adam Kimmel has established his “all american cut” in european fashion and is not yet to be put off his throne.

- Elisabeta Tudor