Nana Aganovich and Brooke Taylor have continuously explored the porous membrane between art and fashion; offering cerebral collections, the duo turned their considerable focus on one element and explored it to abstraction.
Backstage, Shu Uemura’s Kakuyasu Uchiide, chose to highlight glowing summer skin and pair it with a barely there eye while the lips bore an almost imperceptible stain of lipstick, wiped off to leave behind the memory of its former boldness. All were so, save for “the clown”, a staple character of the Aganovich universe with a stark white faces and bold blooded lips. This, he explained, would be the perfect counterpart for the strong silhouettes of spring/summer 2013.
The collection itself seemed inspired by a futuristic fun fair. Well-tailored harem pants, a duo of architecture skater dresses in a negative color scheme, their signature use of radical asymmetry, Aganovich’s strengths were well represented. And what is there not to like in the palest blush brocade, tailored into a short sleeved coat of beautiful proportions?
But as likable as this show was, Aganovich seem to be stuck in an arty rut. Despite a collection that featured strong elements, spring/summer 2013 felt formulaic. “La creation est une fleur du mal” (creation is a bloom of evil), affirmed the duo in their collection manifesto four seasons ago. The significance of the featured stylized flora –artichokes, thistles, and sunflowers- repeated on the invitation to guest badges were lost in the audience. Perhaps a little less cerebral broiling and a little more devilish creation would have made the collection sparkle.
As it stands, they were unable to recapture the innovative wardrobe proposals that put them on the map in seasons past. Hopefully, next season, they’ll be sampling evil’s blossoms afresh.
- Lily Templeton