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Agi & Sam Menswear Spring Summer 2016 London

The inspiration points behind Agape Mdumulla and Sam Cotton's menswear collections have always been divertingly off-piste – from Lego bricks to upholstery prints to Japanese modernism, and from retro football jerseys to scuba gear to African oil logos.

This time around, the trigger was fear, harking back to childhood nightmares of baddies and ghosts. That expressed itself in hand-scrawled stripes and flapping bogeyman silhouettes, in murky shades of cocoa, slate, denim, and midnight blue. The workwear details which have been cropping up in collection after collection this week were here too, with sleek leather utility vests worn under drab macs.

The striped patterning and skewed silhouette proportions provided an animated, dynamic framework for what was largely a quietly understated vision. It wasn't, perhaps, as instantly identifiable as some of their previous collections – but perhaps this latest incarnation is, in fact, where they want to be. It certainly made for a coherent, complete vision. We'll just have to wait and see what next season throws our way.